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Food Frenzy 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Greg Foweraker, Jim Sandford, 1986
Page Views: 507
Submitted By: Peter Spindloe on Aug 27, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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Description 

At 11b, this is one of the easier climbs at the Pet, but it's solid and the first bolt is too high for most stick clips. The crux comes between the first and second bolt, but the route stays sustained the whole way. There's one spot where you could probably "cheat" by going a bit right, but staying on the line is rewarded by good climbing, and it doesn't change the overall grade.

This area of the Pet wall can get some welcome shade from trees while the rest of the wall roasts.

Location 

This route is roughly in the middle of the upper tier of the Pet wall. Its distinguishing feature is that it's the only climb in the vicinity that doesn't look like a 12.

Protection 

Five bolts and a two bolt anchor. A .75 camalot sized piece before the last bolt is nice but not absolutely necessary (definitely recommended if this grade is close to your limit). As mentioned above, the first bolt is too high for most stick clip. The climbing is probably 5.8 to the bolt, but you would be looking at an ankle breaking fall or worse if you blew it.


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By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jul 3, 2009
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

Stay as direct on the route as possible and the line is a little more challenging at the easier sections and flows a little more nicely overall.
By Chai
From: Philadelphia, PA
Jul 19, 2015
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

A small cam (#1 blue Metolius Master Cam if memory serves) helps mitigate the ankle-breaking potential at the start.

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