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Fontainebleau Heron Addict S 
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Unknown, 50' L of Standing on a Corner S 

Fontainebleau Heron Addict 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Scott Rehwinkle 2001
Season: Spring, summer, fall
Page Views: 446
Submitted By: Toast with Butter on Aug 6, 2014

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climbing the 5.11 slab section

Description 

This route is a very beautiful and interesting line. It's a mostly super fun slabby climb so you will probably love it or hate it. This climb's features and movement pushed my conception of what sandstone slab could be. In other words it blew my mind so hop on Start with a mantel into a seat big enough to lace up in. Clip the first bolt and move up and right to engage the techy and committing slab sequences (5.11) to a stance below the bulge. Use some good pockets and probably some small sloped rails to pull over the bulge (12c) and reach a couple little amazing quarter sized iron protrusions. From here the climbing is easy and fun to the top on varnish and rails.

Location 

one bolted route left and downstream of Atlas Shrugged

Protection 

10 bolts to anchors with leavers


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By Toast with Butter
From: Tempe, AZ
Aug 6, 2014

PLease correct me if I have the FA wrong. I am fairly sure the climb to the left is called Slab My Bitch Up 12b. During heavy water flow a log smashed the first bolt hanger almost flat against the wall to the point where a draw wont even fit in it anymore. However, it can be easily toproped off the Fontaineblue anchors, although i found it to be super hard and even on TR with soft stealth rubber I got bitch slabbed.
By climnron
Aug 7, 2014

Yes, the left one is Slab My Bitch Up 12b. I always thought the right was a 12a.
By Clay Mansfield
Aug 9, 2014

Thanks, I've wondered about these routes for a while.
By Floater Bloom
From: Flagstaff AZ
Sep 13, 2014

F.A. by Scott Rehwinkle-2001

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