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Follower’s Folly 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 3 pitches, 180'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,222
Submitted By: Bill Olszewski on Apr 16, 2009

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High on the first pitch.

Description 

This is a beautiful multi-pitch line on the main wall. It starts near the end of a large ramp (that angles up left over the big cave), and finishes at the high point of VD wall. However, due to lack of protection on the upper pitches and a questionable walk-off, it may be best to climb only the first pitch and rappel to descend (as we did).

P1 – Work your way up to the ramp on thin edges and smears. The second bolt has no hanger; either skip it or hang a wired nut from the bolt and clip the wire. Take the ramp a little to the left, then up the headwall, following the bolt line. From the last bolt, angle up and right across the aggregate to a left-leaning flake. The flake takes you up to the first belay ledge and a chain anchor. 6 bolts, 70’

P2 – Climb the headwall directly above the anchor on nice sandstone, passing 3 bolts. There may be a possibility to set a gear anchor on the ledge. 30’

P3 – Climb the unprotected face over a series of “waves” on easy sandstone to the top of VD wall. Finish up and left in a crack and set a gear anchor at the horizontal. 80’ Exit to the southeast and follow the descent given in the description for VD wall.

Location 

To the right of the big cave in the center of VD wall, just left of the start of a big, left-leaning ramp.

Protection 

9 bolts, bolted chain anchor, gear anchors


Photos of Follower’s Folly Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Bob scopes out the second pitch.
Bob scopes out the second pitch.
Rock Climbing Photo: Bob S on the lower slab of Follower's Folly.
Bob S on the lower slab of Follower's Folly.

Comments on Follower’s Folly Add Comment
Show which comments
By alex carey
May 1, 2017
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

the first bolt on pitch 1 is crap, but its not necessary, probably why it wasnt replaced. The rest of pitch 1 look great.
By Chad Parker
From: Ventura, California
May 11, 2017

All new bolts and new anchor as of 2015
All but the first bolt but it's not bad.

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