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Flyswatter 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b PG13 [details]
FA: G. Miller, L. Hill, 2009
Season: faces West, afternoon sun
Page Views: 173
Submitted By: Tony B on Apr 5, 2015

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  • Description 

    This is not a bad route, it is pretty good, actually. It climbs better than it looks and is mostly good rock relative to its neighbor, Lug's Crack. Put the belay up on a ledge right at the entrance to the chimney. Climb up the unprotected 5.4 chimney facing left on casual moves with good rock and solid feet. Top out on the big rock that forms the right side. A critical gear placement can be made out on the left side of this. A knuckle-sized cam goes deep into a small crack and would keep you from tragedy if you made a mistake stemming up into the corner.

    Get whatever other gear you can and head up into the corner. The stem over felt 5.7 for me, but I was strtched a bit. Shorter climbers may find this to be a bit harder (5.8 suggested by my partner). Head up the corner with reasonable protection and to the top. Once on top, climb up and slightly left to a solid tree on a ledge to belay.

    To descend, scramble out onto the slabby backside, head across this slab 30' over to the right side, and go up top, coming back left to reach the raps. Chain and webbing on a solid juniper lead to a 100' rap to the ground. A 60m rope should be fine if you stay aware of the landing and don't try to go too far right at the sloping base.

    Location 

    This route climbs the obvious chimney between Superfly and Lug's Crack to reach a right-facing corner.

    Protection 

    This has a 30' chimney start which has good feet, but no protection (5.4) is the runout on this one. A 0.75" cam (i.e.: yellow HB/Mastercam/Alien) just above this is critical protection. A standard rack finishes the climb. The belay up to is high to the climber's left on a solid tree.


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