REI Community
Lost World at Jacks Canyon
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Blood Chemestry Adjustment S 
Bobcat Roof S 
Fly'n The Spinnaker S 
Nitras Oxide 
Papa Don't Take No Meds S 
Pink Lung Sissy Boy S 
Wake and Bake S 

Fly'n The Spinnaker 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b PG13

   
Type:  Sport, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b PG13 [details]
FA: Chris Thornley
Season: All Day Sun
Page Views: 200
Submitted By: Hendrixson on May 24, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Description 

While the climbing was enjoyable, especially around the third bolt, the rock quality and bolting makes this one worthy of a 'bomb'.

Immediately after clipping the first bolt I pulled two fist-sized chunks off the wall. Fortunately I had the foresight to not use either of these for the clip. This I can overlook.

After the broken band one is forced to climb above a ledge on abysmal rock. The bolt placement is such that should the climber fall due to poor judgement or a hold breaking he will hit the deck.

Lastly pulling the rope dislodged a massive stone that could have seriously injured anyone standing below. My belayer and I were lucky to have not been hit.

In my opinion this route should undergo further cleaning and the bolting should be reconsidered. I am open to other opinions.

Location 

This route is the third from the right; between "Nitrous Oxide" and "Gettin' My Fix". It starts just right of a small tree.

Protection 

8 bolts to anchors.


Comments on Fly'n The Spinnaker Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About