Route Guide    Partners    Forum    Photos    What's New    Journal        
Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
South Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
3rd Rail, The T 
Bears in Heat T 
Blade Runner T 
Blood, Sweat, and Smears T 
Blownout T 
Borderline T,S 
Cloud Nine T 
Couchmaster T 
Cruisin' T 
Excalibur T,S 
Fear of Flying T 
Flying Dutchman T 
Flying Swallow T 
Free for All T 
Free For All, Direct T 
Free for Some T 
Fresh Squeeze T 
Jensen's ridge T 
Jill's Thrill T 
Link-up: Free for All/Dod's Jam/Dastardly Crack T 
Little Wing T 
Lost Warriors T 
Norseman, The S 
Old Warriors Never Die S 
Pipeline T 
Reasonable Richard T 
Rhythm Method S 
Right Gull T 
Rise Up T 
Rock Police T 
Sky Fishermen (free variation of Grunge Book) T,S 
South East Corner T 
Stone Rodeo S 
Wild Turkeys T 
Windsurfer T 
Windwalker T 
Winter Delight T,S 
Young Warriors T 

Flying Swallow 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b PG13

Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 400'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b PG13 [details]
FA: Jeff Thomas, Del Young (1976)
Page Views: 541
Submitted By: the professor on Jun 12, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Beacon Rock is open from July 15, 2016 through February 1st, 2017. See note for more details. MORE INFO >>>


Many of the 1980s Beacon Rock climbers viewed Flying Swallow as the highest quality climb on the crag (yes, better than Dod's Jam + Dastardly Crack, better than Blownout). The old Jeff Thomas guidebook mentioned a runout, but this probably referred to the 5.4 ledge traverse prior to gaining the Flying Swallow dihedral.

P1: climb any of Local Access Only, Reasonable Richard (best choice), or Black Maria. Continue right along an obvious ledge and belay at the base of the Flying Swallow dihedral (5.9, 100 feet).

P2: Stem the dihedral (crux) up clean rock with bits of red lichen, past a bolt to a ledge (5.10d, 75 feet).

P3: A remarkably clean and beautiful dihedral starts with fingers and widens to hands. Belay at the obvious ledge. (5.10b, 60 feet).

P4: A short dihedral with hand crack ends on the far left edge of Grassy Ledges (5.10a, 40 feet).

There is a variation to P3: another less clean dihedral just to the right. Although not as aesthetic as the standard P3, it's worth top-roping at 5.10b/c.


On the SE Face somewhat right of Free For All. Consult Tim Olson's guidebook for details. P3 of Flying Swallow is immediately right of P2 on Flight Time.


Take the usual Beacon Rock rack, including some RPs for the start of P2 (crux). There is a 12 foot runout past the bolt on P2, but the stemming is easier here.

Each pitch has fixed anchors (with possibly ancient webbing) and the route can be rappelled.

Comments on Flying Swallow Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -