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Armed and Dangerous Area (Main Cliff Left)
Routes Sorted
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Anchovy Caper, The S 
Armed and Dangerous, and Off My Medication S 
Arugula, Arugula S 
Barbershop Duet T 
Big Easy, The S 
Boats from Cuba T 
Bonnie and Clyde S 
Bourbon Street S 
Brendan's Bitches T 
Cereal Killer S 
Climb and Punishment S 
Cloud Atlas S 
Clusterphobia S 
Far From Feral S 
Fish Corner  S 
Flying Squirrel S 
Green Mile S 
Half Nelson 5.7/ Full Nelson 5.11b S 
Juicy Fingers T 
Maltese Falcon, The S 
Maria's Variation T 
Men In White Suits S 
Mentally Disturbed S 
Mesresha S 
Metamorphosis S 
Mitosis S 
Panama Hat (aka Mister Meaner) S 
Rainbow S 
Scene of the Crime S 
Sesame Street S 
Slack T 
Slick T 
Toxic Gumbo S 
White Buttress, The T 

Flying Squirrel 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Chris Smith
Page Views: 3,166
Submitted By: Jake D. on Apr 26, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (39)
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BETA PHOTO: An acrobatic start leads to face/arete climbing be...


Climb above Anchovy Caper anchor to belay ledge. Start 10 feet right of belay anchor. climb up to cave/alcove to a bolt. Grab some holds and swing over to the arete. Shares an anchor with Panama Hat.


2nd route on the belay ledge above anchovy caper.


8 bolts to bolted anchor

Photos of Flying Squirrel Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: namesake move
BETA PHOTO: namesake move
Rock Climbing Photo: the fun after the crux
the fun after the crux
Rock Climbing Photo: After climbing the meat of Flying Squirrel, you ar...
After climbing the meat of Flying Squirrel, you ar...

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 11, 2015
By Jake D.
From: Northeast
Apr 26, 2010

TR'd this yesterday after leading Panama Hat. Such a fun route, i gotta get back up there and lead it. perfect route name.
By S. Neoh
Jul 3, 2010

Does one need to use the manky/green rail/heuco to climb up to the 1st glue-in? And, boy, there are some nasty looking cobwebs high up on the route. So I decided not to deal with the green holds and spiders today.
By M Sprague
From: New England
Jul 3, 2010
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

I think only if you are 5'2". Nancy L. gets up in there. You should be able to just lean across, grab the edges, hang low and swing your feet over and get a heal hook.
By Jake D.
From: Northeast
Jun 17, 2012

getting to the 2nd bolt is hard. i did it on TR but kept falling on lead. haven't gone back to it to try again. i'm 5'7
By twellman
From: Cambridge
Sep 9, 2012
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

This route is fun fun fun. The initial swinging boulder problem is very unique climbing!

I am taller (6') and obviously that makes grabbing the first holds easier, but getting your feet up and under you is easier for shorties! I thought 11a was a fair grade, it is a bouldery opening sequence.
By Matt Wilson
From: Vermont, USA
Sep 19, 2012

If you want to climb this, be prepared for many spider webs.
By Matt Levine
From: Concord, NH
Mar 14, 2013

I take a good peek up at this every time I climb its neighbor to the left. Looks formidable but I want to get on it soon. Really cool looking climb.
By Lundy Bancroft
Jul 28, 2013

Don't be afraid to try this route. The swing out is unusual but feels fine once you try it if you get the right holds before lifting your feet off the ledge. Then it's only about three hard moves up from there to a good hold, foot placements, and a rest, and then easier traveling follows.
By Brunt Tornton
From: NH
Sep 6, 2013

vast majority of spider webs are in the dihedral at the top which can be completely avoided
By Eric Leclerc
From: Montreal
Jan 23, 2014
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

I hope that the new guidebook will give this climb at least 2 stars.
When I climbed this route two years ago, I was having so much fun climbing it.
Too many climbers at Rumney snob second and third pitch routes but some of those routes are so cool and you never wait in line when you want to climb it.
By Jeffrey.LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Jul 1, 2014

My wife found a bomber kneebar midway up the arete. I love this climb! If it started on the ground it would have a permanent line for it.
By Jason Scott Heacock
From: Milford, NH
Aug 11, 2015

Climbed this route as well as Panama Hat (Mister Meaner) this wknd. Super cool!!

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