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Flying Squirrel aka The Diagonal 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: FA -Karin Bates & Joe Terravecchia, 1992
Page Views: 1,457
Submitted By: burlap submariner on Sep 15, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Will on Diagonal


Locate a bolt just above small triangular roof at the base of the cliff. Pass the bolt on moderate 10- to thin cracks up to the main diagonal crack. Follow the crack switching to the higher crack mid route. The climbing here is sustained with a show stopper bouldery crux just below the last bolt.


the second to last route on the farthest right wall of the main cliff at stonehouse - look for a bolt just above a small triangular roof on the right side of the cliff.


rack from green alien to #4 BD, one bolt on the bottom, one at the top.

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By Joe Terravecchia
Sep 15, 2012
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

I don't know if it was the FFA, but Karin Bates & I cleaned out the vegetation in the crack in 1992 and added the bolts after putting up Luna and Sicilian. Called it Flying Squirrel then after the critter that leaped out of the crack and glided into the trees on our first lead. I think it's probably 50' max as it starts uphill from Sicilian and Luna.
By And Partner
Sep 27, 2012
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

3 draws
(1) red C3, .5 .75 #1 #2
You can substitute extras in those sizes although this should probably suffice.
By Joe Terravecchia
Sep 27, 2012
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Will and I climbed it today. Better than I had remembered and a good warm-up for the harder routes at the pond. Seems a little easier than say Lichen Delight on the Barber Wall. 10d/11a imo.
By Jon.R
Sep 17, 2016

Did something break on this? Felt harder than Sicilian Olympics to me
By Matt Desenberg
From: North Berwick, ME
Sep 1, 2017
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Fun climbing. The top slopers are pumpy, imo

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