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Kimball Canyon Crag
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Black Sheep Squadon S 
Ceiling Zero S,TR 
Dogfight T 
Flying Machines S 
Grey Ghost S,TR 
Off the Radar S,TR 
Pilot Error S,TR 
Pre-Flight S 
Sad Wings of Destiny S,TR 
Shooting Star S 
Sweet Dreams S 
T-33 S 
Vapor Trail S,TR 

Flying Machines 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 75'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Eric Berghorn
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 96
Submitted By: Eric Berghorn on Jan 21, 2017

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Sweet Dreams 5.10a and Flying Machines 5.10c

Description 

The crux of this route is possibly the awkward start or maybe clipping the anchor above the balancey, pumpy finish. Belay from the alcove just below Sweet Dreams (route to the immediate left) Clip the high first bolt and get established on the thin reddish colored face which angles slightly up and to the right past 4 bolts. Sustained, technical climbing on small edges and crimps.

Above the 4th bolt steep leftward trending moves angle up along a ramp with hidden jugs and pockets leading to a good rest before tackling the finish moves.

Location 

This is the second left most route as you approach the crag from below, BEAR LEFT at the base of the crag and follow the access path for 60-70 feet.

As with Sweet Dreams an overhanging 12' ft. boulder face blocks the view of this climb from the ground and must be passed on the left, behind a tree, and than 4th class scramble up 25 feet and belay off a 2'ft. chock stone/boulder embedded in the floor of the alcove. The first bolt is 15 feet above and slightly right. This high 1st bolt can be clipped from a stance on flat ledge.

While it is possible to belay from the access path below the base of the route it is impossible to see the leader as the view from here is blocked by the boulder immediately in the foreground. Take care with setting up the belay above this obstruction and making sure you and you partner account for starting these climbs in the alcove high above the ground.

Protection 

7 bolts to Chain Anchor


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