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Flying In The Mountains 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 6 pitches, 800', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA:  Sean Jones, Jake Jones [or Robbie Borchard 2/1005?], 9/2004
Page Views: 3,275
Submitted By: Jeff Scheuerell on Mar 30, 2010

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Looking up p5. A little heady after the crack, but...

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  • Description 

    Another great Sean Jones Route with several excellent pitches.

    P1 (9) Climb the left facing corner, a bit loose at the top, to a bolted belay.

    You can also start with Hummock world 5.7 on the left or Rough Around the Edges to the right. Rough Around the Edges climbs the arete just right of the Flying in the Mountains corner (9). Or best start is on the face just down and right (10b) past a pin and 3 bolts into a thin crack on the arete.

    P2 (10a/b) Follow the obvious finger crack up to a 2 bolt anchor. A very nice pitch!

    P3 (11a) Follow bolts up to, then over, the roof. Continue with technical climbing up the corner, then out right over the arete, then up to a 2 bolt belay.

    P4 (11a) Follow the obvious crack up to a 2 bolt belay.

    P5 (10b) Climb up and left then back right, passing a bolt or two, into the crack and follow it to a 2 bolt belay. (A bit heady).

    P6 (10c) Follow several bolts right and up on great edges to the top and another 2 bolt anchor. Another very nice pitch!

    Can rap the route with 2 ropes or rap homeworld with one.


    40' left of Homeworld


    Singles to # 3 Camalot w/extra small finger and finger size peices.

    Photos of Flying In The Mountains Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 3 roof. There is a clipped bolt hidden behin...
    Pitch 3 roof. There is a clipped bolt hidden behin...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up p6. Great thin edging.
    Looking up p6. Great thin edging.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Here's a poor topo for Flying
    BETA PHOTO: Here's a poor topo for Flying

    Comments on Flying In The Mountains Add Comment
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    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 5, 2017
    By paulmadry
    Oct 5, 2010
    rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

    Great route. Five fantastic 5.10 pitches, all different. Abundant pro or bolts. Soft for the grade (5.11).
    By Osprey Overhang
    From: ...
    Jan 7, 2012

    FA: Sean Jones, Jake Jones [or Robbie Borchard 2/1005?], 9/2004
    By J. Albers
    From: Colorado
    Nov 5, 2012
    rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

    Amazing and varied route; crack, face, slab...a little bit of everything. I would disagree with Paul's comment about this being "soft" for the grade. I think there are two 5.11- sections on pitch 3 (the initial roof and the moves up and left after exiting the corner at the top of the pitch); the moves above the first bolt to gain the crack on the 4th pitch are probably 5.11a as well. Otherwise this route is mostly 5.10a/b climbing.
    By Robert Lester
    Mar 23, 2013

    Climbed the first 3 pitches then bailed bc my partner couldn't follow the 3rd. Anyway, the 3rd pitch is really good sport climbing, requiring some thought.

    Pitch 1 was hard to locate and I ended up just climbing this nasty groove with hummocks that was no harder than 5.6. I think the first pitch is indeed a LEFT facing corner, with a bolted arete on its right side. not sure why the description says right facing, it definitely faces LEFT.

    Pitch 2 is ok, not the type of sllitter you find in the Valley, but a fun crack nonetheless.

    Def recommend this sweet route.
    By J. Albers
    From: Colorado
    Mar 23, 2013
    rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

    Robert is correct, the first pitch is indeed a left facing corner.
    By Jeff Scheuerell
    Apr 7, 2013

    Oops, left facing for sure. Imagine making an error in your writing? Just fixed it.

    I enjoyed the "nasaty groove" and I really like the second pitch.

    The "bolted" arete(Rough around the Edges)with one bolt and the direct are IMO better starts than the left facing corner which is often wet.
    By Short Fall Sean
    From: Flagstaff, AZ
    Apr 15, 2013

    This is a super fun route, a really good way to beat the crowds that are on some of the bigger name routes. I thought the roof on p3 was a distinct crux, I'd call that 11 or 11- and maybe all the other hard bits 10 or 10+. My partner didn't think it was such a stand-out crux (and he led it).

    We brought singles to 3" with extras in the yellow/orange metolius region. We never placed the #3 camalot, so I would definitely leave that behind. I placed the #2 once on p4, but it was in a pretty easy section and it would have been fine running it out a bit there. I'd say bring a single rack up to red camalot with extras in the finger sizes. The route is really well protected, and you even get bolts off of the belays on some pitches to protect against factor twos before you get established in a crack. Thanks, FA-ists!
    By Phil Esra
    Apr 15, 2013

    It's not fancy, but the topo on this site worked great.

    Don't overshoot the p1 anchor by continuing up 4th class dirt ramp to visible bolts on right.

    I placed a smallish cam off the deck on the crux 3rd pitch, but it's otherwise very well bolted, no more pro needed.

    p5 mostly only takes tiny cams and small nuts. Place gear where you can get it--it's not plentiful, and it's always small. A few bomber sideways placements for BD #4-5ish nuts. Offset nuts and cams would probably help. (Not particularly difficult climbing tho...)

    We got down with one "short" 70m rope and some shenanigans, including a 20-foot easy 5th class downclimb to a big ledge about 200' off the ground. Rapped to the ground on a dirty fixed line from there. Didn't see a better option, but didn't look too hard for one either. Our rap route hopped around a bit but mostly followed the fall line down from the topout, to the right of the route.
    By SirTobyThe3rd
    Mar 24, 2014

    Such a great line! On first pitch we took a 10b face past a few pins and bolts. Thought the whole climb was great after that. Last 10c face pitch has incredible edging.
    By RyanWBaker
    Apr 4, 2014

    Fun route, was dry after one mostly cloudy day after a three day snow/rain storm. Although there isn't a lot of approach info, it's pretty easy to find on the left side of the crag. Probably don't need a #2 camalot size, doubles in fingers blue to red alien nice to have and offset stoppers. Also, at least 12 draws mandatory as the last pitch is all bolts and super fun. Great springtime route!
    By david s wilson
    Apr 8, 2014

    A very clean route deserving of more traffic. Soft for the grade.
    By tallmark515
    From: San Francisco
    Jan 20, 2015

    Stellar route! Incredible edging, sustained 5.10 on mostly awesome crimps and cracks and even a bit of slab. Pitch 3 (crux) is 4-stars as is most of the rest of the climb. The whole route is very safe, with maybe the exception being P5, which admittedly was "a bit heady" but the climbing was not very difficult.

    We brought: Singles BD .75-2 and Doubles black Alien - red Alien, 14 draws.

    First pitch has multiple starts, we started on the 5.10c bolted face (Homeworld p1?), past rap anchor to easy finger crack to gain the big ledge, however this brought us up too high on the ledge and we had to down climb 30 feet down the 4th class ramp to gain the proper set of chains. A more direct (but less classy?) start would be the bolted line to the climbers left of where we started (5.10b? face near the arete).

    Never found the 5.11- on P4, and we actually thought that P6 felt harder than anything on P4. P3 is a height dependent move at the crux roof, 5.11- seems fair, maybe even harder for shorter folks.

    This route is near Homeworld/P-Line Express area and is approached by using the main approach gully from the road which takes you to the base, then turning (climbers) left with the obvious trail and following it as it skirts just below the base for another 10+ minutes. Keep an eye out for obvious clearings which expose the two bolted line options (as well as the other easier and less classy looking options) for the first pitch.
    By aaron hope
    From: Walnut Creek, CA
    Apr 27, 2015

    Destined to be a classic? Felt as fun as Serenity Crack (and a lot less painful). Probably soft for the grade and not sustained. Trad pitches had great rests for setting gear. We started with the just right of the arete on the face past two bolts and a pin and then went left to the crack/arete and followed that up to the P1 anchors. This seems like the most logical start to me and looked a lot easier (and more fun) than the actual 5.9 corner start.
    By pepito
    Apr 15, 2016

    Overall good route, but not that great. Fifth pitch deserves a R, because there is bad pro on the second half, (tiny cams on dubious rock), that I don't think it would hold in case of a fall. Third and sixth pitches are really good. We rap with one 60meter rope on homeworld, short and clean rappels, but it takes a long time. I recommend to bring a tag line. My suggested rack: camalot 1 each 0.5, 0.75, 1, 2,3. (nº 3 only useful in the 4th pitch) alien 2 each blue, 3 each green, yellow, red. 12 quickdraws.
    By Kush Khandelwal
    Apr 18, 2016

    Stellar route in a spectacular vista high above the roaring Merced. Clean, sustained and fairly straightforward. Takes gear well and the sport pitches are well protected Single rack upto BD 2 suffices with plenty of draws. Didn't use any nuts.

    Route finding was not too hard. Important to look for the left facing corner. Most are right corners so left facing corner was easy to spot. We opted for the bolted line just right of the arete (the crack in the corner - the direct start - was wet and didn't inspire). The bolted line (1 pin and 2 bolts visible from ground), begins from under the treets and you've break left to eventually finish at the ledge on the left.

    Rapping from Homeworld was key beta as we only had one 70. At the end we used the fixed line to do the final rap.
    By Jeff Scheuerell
    Apr 18, 2016

    I love this route and it is awesome it is getting a bit of traffic. If you liked this route you should check out Tweet this and Dangling Chads. At least the first 2 pitches are classic and the rest is great for a multipitch with no crowds. Also P-line has some very good pitches with multiple starts.
    By Andrey Poletayev
    Mar 6, 2017
    rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13

    Fun and varied route, and will only get better as some of the remaining choss filters out. P4 and P5 link with a full-length 70m rope, but are better done separately. Great bolt placements, kudos to the FA team! Excellent edges on P6 not to be missed!
    By Bruno Beltran
    From: Stanford, CA
    Mar 8, 2017
    rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13

    Echo Andrey's comments, esp. aesthetically excellent bolt placement. Seemed PG-13 only if you try to link P4 and P5 (not recommended), since gear gets a little tricky and communication is impossible moving into the more insecure climbing on P5. Then again, I didn't lead P5 :)

    Otherwise seemed to take good pro throughout. I think we placed a #4 for giggles but also didn't use our #3s at all. #2's were definitely well used up top.

    Two ropes needed to rap from the top of P5, even with a 70m.
    By mpech
    Apr 5, 2017

    An unusual climb by yosemite climbing standards-- lots of positive feet and handholds to use.

    More bolts are present than sloan guide indicates.

    An enjoyable route, but grade felt pretty soft-- more like 10C?


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