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Unsorted Routes:

Flying Circus 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Dick Mitten, Dave Lane 1977
Season: Mostly Summer
Page Views: 9,431
Submitted By: Michael John Gray on Jul 30, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (254)
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Mike leading one of the routes in this area (?)

Do not park in the residential neighborhood! Park in the designated lot MORE INFO >>>


This is a sustained fingercrack and a great climb. Its often toproped but I found it to be a fine lead. Its rock is rather polished from TR traffic.


Its on the main wall of neat and cool left of the overhang and right of the dihedral the crack looks awesome splitting the face.


Nuts, smaller cams.. you'll figure it out.

Photos of Flying Circus Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Flying Circus Topo
BETA PHOTO: Flying Circus Topo
Rock Climbing Photo: Peter Croft on Flying Circus.  We just happened to...
Peter Croft on Flying Circus. We just happened to...
Rock Climbing Photo: Wonderfullness
Rock Climbing Photo: Lie backing the initial fingers section.
Lie backing the initial fingers section.
Rock Climbing Photo: About to get into the fingers section.
About to get into the fingers section.
Rock Climbing Photo: Cruising right along
Cruising right along
Rock Climbing Photo: It hurts so good
It hurts so good
Rock Climbing Photo: Brian Braunstein Stitchin' it up
Brian Braunstein Stitchin' it up

Comments on Flying Circus Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jun 26, 2017
By Peter Spindloe
From: North Vancouver, BC
Oct 23, 2006

Guidebooks and posts in various locations all reference the polish this climb has received from top rope traffic. I led it this Saturday; never having done it before I can't compare to some earlier state, but it really didn't seem polished, or at least it didn't seem harder than the grade would suggest. A very enjoyable and well protected climb.
By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Jan 20, 2007

This one has been loved smooth from all the ascents. Good polished fun.
By Jeremy
From: Boulder, CO
May 26, 2008

I thought this route was better than neat & cool.
By Wanderinfree Chrislip
From: Boulder, CO
May 26, 2008

This route didn't seem polished at all to me. Awesome finger locks. Great route!
By Chris Duca
From: Havertown, PA
Jul 20, 2008
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Led it this past Friday, and it was a great and varied route, with tremendous texture on either side of the crack. Wish it could've gone on for another pitch.
By Michael John Gray
From: Queensbury, NY
Jul 26, 2008

Croft is my rolemodel!

Thanks for the cool pic!
By Matt Desenberg
From: North Berwick, ME
Apr 21, 2009

Great climb, felt more 5.10 than some of the other stuff in the Bluffs.
By Laurel Fan
Jun 27, 2011

A little polish might not be that bad, sharp crystal finger locks kind of hurt...
By Tobias Tillemans
From: seattle, WA
Jul 30, 2011

I think the polish is on the feet. Particularly near the crux there are some rather shiny ones.
By Matt Hoffmann
From: Squamish
Apr 23, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Locker fingers. A bit polished from all the traffic but, the gear is solid so go for it!
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jun 4, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

One of the best climbs in the Smoke Bluffs area. Not that polished - still good friction, and great fingerlocks and gear. A must-do.
By Bryan Hall
From: Portland, Oregon
Aug 10, 2012

I slipped at the crux stance while resting and blew the onsight... But! I wouldn't say it's polished, just not great happy feet. The Zip is much better at 10a tho.
By Mark Roberts
From: Vancouver, BC
Aug 11, 2013
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Locker fingers, bomber gear, sustained width. Get some.
By Alex Jacques
From: Burlington, CT
Jul 3, 2014

wow every comment talks about "the polish". Just shut up and climb this classic.
By Ambrose Bittner
From: Seattle, WA
May 25, 2016
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

A single set of nuts is all you need for gear to protect this climb. Try it, I dare you! It also saves space for your finger locks.
By rohanbk
From: Seattle, WA
Aug 1, 2016

This felt like the greasiest route I've ever climbed. Offset nuts made this climb feel safe.
By Nick Drake
From: Newcastle, WA
May 30, 2017
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Really fun route, great locks and nice spacing between them. I cleaned it first thing on a cool morning and wondered why people talked about polish.
Then I went to lead it after the sun hit and temps were going up. Yeah the footholds are a bit polished and if you sweat at all it's going to feel really greasy. I blew a foot around the crux and took a ride on a yellow totem. Leader after me popped their foot in the same spot.

A .75 or #1 is nice to have if you want to protect easier mantle near the top.
By Joshua Thompson
From: Seattle, Washington
Jun 26, 2017

This was one of my funnest climbs at Smoke Bluffs. Temps were in the 80's so it was plenty hot but didn't actually have any issues. Great locks, great gear! A must do! Oh, and if Neat and Cool is a 10a, then this route is a 5.8... just saying

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