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Primo Wall
Routes Sorted
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Battle With a Bush T 
Breakfast Club S 
City Slickers S 
Crying Flyboys S 
Doomsday Birthday T 
Eternal Recurrence S 
Flying Child S 
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Grim Aura S 
Groan Up S 
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Primetime To Shine S 
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Public Play S 
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Public Suck Shine S 
Relative To Standing S 
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Super Happy Fun Time S 
Suspended Sentence S 
Tater Tot S 

Flying Child 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]
FA: Hardly
Season: Year 'round
Page Views: 2,028
Submitted By: Jay Samuelson on Mar 6, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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Phil styling the start.

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  • Description 

    This is a LINK-UP: climb the first half of Flying Cowboys to the ledge, but instead of mantling, traverse left along the lip into the top half of Problem Child.

    Location 

    Start with Flying Cowboys.

    Protection 

    7 draws + 2 bolt anchor. A longer draw for #4 and #6 can be helpful but is not necessary.


    Photos of Flying Child Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: After the transition. You can see the 4th clip of ...
    After the transition. You can see the 4th clip of ...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Flyin' Child.
    Flyin' Child.

    Comments on Flying Child Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Chad Volk
    From: Arvada, CO
    Mar 30, 2017

    CONDITION REPORT 
    The pedestal pinch to the right of the second to last bolt broke off today. It's currently at the base of the climb. There's a small crimp left behind but nowhere near as good as the previous hold.

    I have no experience gluing holds back on nor do I know if that's the best course of action, but if someone needs help reattaching it, let me know.
    By Jay Samuelson
    From: Denver CO
    Mar 31, 2017

    CONDITION REPORT 
    Hey Chad, bummer that hold broke! I loved that little pinch, it was such a cool hold.

    I suggest we leave the route as it is and not add more glue to the Primo Wall. I'm sure the route still goes, and now we have a new challenge to overcome.
    By Jay Samuelson
    From: Denver CO
    Mar 6, 2013

    Granted this is a link-up, but I think it's better than either Flying Cowboys or Problem Child. You avoid the ledges on both of those routes, and instead you get consistent, good movement all the way to the top of the wall.
    By Luke Childers
    Mar 6, 2013

    I agree with Jay. The line is really good and very clean. Although I did not get on it, I gave a catch and found it to be a very good link-up, and I'm pumped to try it. Nice send today, Jay. Well done.
    By mlloyd
    From: denver
    Aug 23, 2013
    rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

    An excellent link-up. Good work, fellas! I think it's well graded at 13a.
    By Adam Stewart
    Aug 16, 2015
    rating: 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c

    Really enjoyed this one- has to be one of the best 13s in Clear Creek. I personally felt this is significantly harder than Squeeze Play. I'd maybe say low end 5.13b.
    By Curt MacNeill
    From: Boulder, CO
    Oct 8, 2016
    rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c

    13b in my book. Harder than Squeeze Play and all the other 13a linkups here I have done. Regardless, a fun flowy route with a heart breaking move at the top....
    By DPug
    Nov 4, 2016
    rating: 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b

    Amazing route but way soft in my book. Feels like 12a into 12b so maybe 12+? Or maybe it's just easier for taller folks?
    By MattL
    From: Boulder, CO
    Apr 23, 2017
    rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c

    It still goes after the break (end of March, 2017). It seems that the path of least resistance is now left of the last two bolts instead of right of the last two bolts. Felt like 5.12 climbing to a V7 crux without much rest, IMO. No glue necessary!
    By Jay Samuelson
    From: Denver CO
    Apr 24, 2017

    For those curious, the right-of-the-bolt-line beta still goes as well, and it didn't seem to change the grade. The second to last clip is slightly harder and the move out of the position is maybe more precarious, but overall it didn't really seem to change the route all that much. Besides the fact that the right hand pinch was just an awesome hold to grab!

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