Flying Buttress Rock Climbing
4-5 Gully From the top of Flying Buttress.
Situated at the base of the Cathedral Spires, Flying Buttress is one of the key landmarks for starting your excursions into the maze of gullies that comprise the approach trails to some of the more obscure climbs in the Spires. Just before reaching Flying Buttress, you pass the 3-4 gully. Just pass the Buttress is the 4-5 gully which leads to such classic climbs as Eye Tooth and East Gruesome.
Park at the Ten Pins parking lot and follow the Cathedral Spires trail until you are almost at the base of the Spires. There is an obvious trail which cuts off to the right just before the main trail steepens. Follow this right hand branch for about 5 minutes and you will see a spire with a large perforation through it. The hole is similar to the top half of the eye in the Needles Eye. This spire is Flying Buttress.
Climbing Season For the Cathedral Spires area.
Weather station 5.0 miles from here
3 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For Flying Buttress
Flying Buttress Airlines 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
: Custer State Park
: ... : Flying Buttress
To the left of the South West Chimney on the south face start up a yellow boulder problem about 5.9. You are heading for a shallow crack 20 or so feet up so you can get gear 2-2.5 friend or equivalent. There is a possible RP placement along the way. From the shallow crack move left and get a small nut #1 rock and pull a 5.10a crux. Easy climbing leads to a bolt its as far right as I could get it but very low. Clip the bolt with a second rope and go up and left up a shallow dihedral with a ...[more] Browse More Classics in SD