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The Flying Buttress
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Flying Buttress Direct 

YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b PG13

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b PG13 [details]
FA: Paul Grey, David Johnson, 1966
Season: When it is not raining hard
Page Views: 3,867
Submitted By: Dpurf on Jan 18, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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Tackling the lip pull on Flying Buttress Direct


Exhilarating climbing on large holds. Climb up the slab to the center of the roof. No protection until under the roof and it is off to the left. Get to the first big hold and do a blind placement of a #1 BD or was a #2. Sorry I can't remember. Now there is a little trick to getting established, but I am not giving that away. After that brute force will get to the top. Enjoy.
A side note when I first climb in Stanage, I did not understand the ratings. The guy(Patrick) I was climbing with told me on very climb we did there it was 5.8. After my on site of this I thought to myself the ratings here sure are stiff.


Look for a big roof, wait there are a lot of big roofs there. Just ask some one they will direct you.


single set of cams and a set of nuts.

Photos of Flying Buttress Direct Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The Flying Buttress Topo
BETA PHOTO: The Flying Buttress Topo
Rock Climbing Photo: Doesn't that looks like some fun
Doesn't that looks like some fun

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By rdlennon
From: New Hampshire
Sep 28, 2008
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

The crucial cam is a #1 camalot. In American grading terms, this route is like a 5.5 slab to a 12-foot V1 to a 5.6 slab with a couple of slopey mantles. Not very sustained, but very excellent. The exposure can't be beat.
By Nick Russell
From: Bristol, UK
Jun 3, 2013

I still laugh when I think back to missing that crucial cam placement. It would have been quite a nasty fall if I'd blown the moves above the roof.
By lm610
From: Nottingham
Apr 2, 2015
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I'd say 5.9 or in English terms HVS 5a/5b. very safe very good gear. will take a Camolot #1 or#2 or both if you have the endurance to place them.

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