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Flying A Buttress
5.11d YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British R
Avg: 3 from 4
votes
Routes in The Playground
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Advanced Start T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Barlow's Buttress T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Battle of the Bulge T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Beginner's Hand Jam T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Black Wall T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Blow Hole T,TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Burnt Crack T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Cactus Climb T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Cactus Climb, Left (var.) T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Cheeks, The T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Code Brown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Face Variation TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Fingertip Layback T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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First Strike T,S,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Flakey Face TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Flakey Nine T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Flying A T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Flying A Buttress T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Luke and Carlo's Route TR 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Moment of Inertia T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Mononucleosis T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Moon Dog T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Mr. Foster's Lead T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Obsidian Corner TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Open Project TR 5.14 8c+ 34 XI- 34 E9 7b |
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Original Horak Route T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Playground Traverse V6-7 7A+ |
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Playgrounder, The T,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13 |
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Repo Man T,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Route 1 T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Route 16 T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Route 17 T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Route 18 T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Route 20 T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Route 25 T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Route 27 T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Route 37 T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Route 6 T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Route 6 (var.) T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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T2 Flake T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Texas T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Tree Climb T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Unrelenting Nines T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Upper Left Roof T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Vulture Roof TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Zander Zigzag T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | unknown, late 1970s/early 80s |
| Page Views: | 1,294 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | George Perkins on Jan 9, 2009 |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
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Description
Flying A Buttress is a fun thin face toprope problem, taking on the buttress and face left of Flying A and right of Texas. It is rather sustained, with about the first 30' of continuous face climbing at approx. hard 5.11 with a short section with one or two harder moves.
A bouldery start with sidepull holds and small crimps gets you to a stance above the small bulge 8' up- this is a fun boulder problem in of itself. Thin crimp move past the small roof and you can grab a larger flat-topped ledge. Manteling onto this ledge is tricky, then a weird move to more crimps, lets you reach the thinnest and cruxiest section of the climb; bear down on tiny edges or find some trickery for 2 or 3 moves on the slightly overhanging face. Better edges & ledges are above, and the hard part of the climbing is done after 30' up.
Obviously the "Flying A crack" is considered "off" throughout the climb but for the most part moving over to it is not too tempting, so it's not unreasonably contrived.
The line as shown in 'Jemez Rock' is a little off- the start should be independent and just left of the chimney that is the typical start for Flying A.
(I toproped this route -as does virtually everybody else- and I think the only place you could get get any meaningful pro is the horizontal crack under the roof about 12' up. I think if you fell at what I think is the hardest part, you would deck from about 25' up, maybe landing on rocks. The climbing gets easier above, but there are still no more gear placements until almost the very top. I think one would be better off soloing vs leading. Edit: See Lee's note below for beta from someone who's done more than I have with this climb.)
A bouldery start with sidepull holds and small crimps gets you to a stance above the small bulge 8' up- this is a fun boulder problem in of itself. Thin crimp move past the small roof and you can grab a larger flat-topped ledge. Manteling onto this ledge is tricky, then a weird move to more crimps, lets you reach the thinnest and cruxiest section of the climb; bear down on tiny edges or find some trickery for 2 or 3 moves on the slightly overhanging face. Better edges & ledges are above, and the hard part of the climbing is done after 30' up.
Obviously the "Flying A crack" is considered "off" throughout the climb but for the most part moving over to it is not too tempting, so it's not unreasonably contrived.
The line as shown in 'Jemez Rock' is a little off- the start should be independent and just left of the chimney that is the typical start for Flying A.
(I toproped this route -as does virtually everybody else- and I think the only place you could get get any meaningful pro is the horizontal crack under the roof about 12' up. I think if you fell at what I think is the hardest part, you would deck from about 25' up, maybe landing on rocks. The climbing gets easier above, but there are still no more gear placements until almost the very top. I think one would be better off soloing vs leading. Edit: See Lee's note below for beta from someone who's done more than I have with this climb.)
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