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Flying & Drinking and Drinking & Driving 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a PG13

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a PG13 [details]
FA: Don Mellor 1985
Page Views: 5,333
Submitted By: E thatcher on Jun 4, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (64)
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In the 5.7 R section. It's fine; it's 15 ft above ...


FDDD starts by climbing up the initial corner of Labatt-Ami, before cutting back left on good holds, until you are just shy of the arete. Small gear can be found at either end of the traverse and should be utilized while still being as extended as possible.

From the end of the traverse, make a couple hard, thin moves to a jug rest at the base of a thin crack. Protect in the crack with small nuts and face climb up to the crux, getting into a small left facing corner.

Once you've gained the corner follow the 5.7 jug haul to the top.

The gear on the 5.10 sections of this climb is small and decently spaced. I would not hesitate to call it PG 13. The 5.7 jug haul is unprotected for the last 15-20 feet and certainly R. The holds are, however, the definition of juggy.

There is a direct version that pulls a roof to the right of the mainline. It goes at 5.10d R, but can be easily TR'd off of the same anchors.


The extreme right side of the Upper Beer walls. The face between Frosted Mug and Labatt-Ami


As much small gear as you have. I sunk a set of c3's and two black aliens and it was by no means laced up. Fixed anchors at the top, shared with Frosted Mug and Labatt-Ami

Photos of Flying & Drinking and Drinking & Driving Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Flying & Drinking (.10a)
Flying & Drinking (.10a)
Rock Climbing Photo: Prepping for an early season lead of Flying & Drin...
Prepping for an early season lead of Flying & Drin...
Rock Climbing Photo: gblauer working her way up the climb. Good frictio...
gblauer working her way up the climb. Good frictio...
Rock Climbing Photo: The route
The route
Rock Climbing Photo: The gear I used. Many other options available, all...
BETA PHOTO: The gear I used. Many other options available, all...
Rock Climbing Photo: View looking up from the base, Labat-Ami on the ri...
View looking up from the base, Labat-Ami on the ri...
Rock Climbing Photo: jaysen henderson at the base of the finger crack s...
jaysen henderson at the base of the finger crack s...
Rock Climbing Photo: Alexa on FDDD. Photo by Adam Bofinger
Alexa on FDDD. Photo by Adam Bofinger
Rock Climbing Photo: Converse entering the 5.7 finish.
Converse entering the 5.7 finish.
Rock Climbing Photo: Converse low on the route
Converse low on the route

Comments on Flying & Drinking and Drinking & Driving Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jun 11, 2017
By E thatcher
From: Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
Jun 4, 2010

An awesome Picture of Guide Book author Jim Lawyer on this classic

If you see this, thanks for the beta at the base Jim, you're a walking guidebook + beta machine
By Jim Lawyer
Oct 1, 2010

One of the best .10a pitches in the Chapel Pond area.
By Greg Kuchyt
From: Richmond, VT
May 12, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

In my opinion, I don't know that I'd call this PG per se. It's one of those G/PG depending on how you feel about these things. It's not G in the sense that you can get gear at any time you want it, but it's not PG in the sense that you're moving more than body lengthish distances above pieces. I think the distance between the pieces at the hardest points is reasonable to be called G. I can understand the opinion of PG though.
By Jaysen Henderson
From: Bronx NY
Sep 19, 2011

TR'd this yesterday and LOVED it, the delicate climbing wandering all over the face is great, plus, the amazing jug haul at the end. I think im going to plan on leading this one if i can get enough small gear together to make it safe.
By Jaysen Henderson
From: Bronx NY
May 7, 2012

lead this yesterday, super safe if you bring doubles in the red and green c3 size and a small set of rp's.
By Tucker Roderick
From: Squamish
Jun 20, 2013

Great moves on beautiful rock! I found that a single set of C3s was sufficient.
By Eric Chabot
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Sep 29, 2014

nuts, double set of c3s and single set regular cams up to #2 will sew it up. I'd say PG since the beginning of the traverse out of the corner at the start felt a little hairy and the finishing jug haul did too, but the 5.9 and 5.10 moves you can have a bunch of (small) gear at your face if you want...
By Nick Weinberg
From: Essex, NY
May 28, 2015

This is an amazing pitch on really nice rock, but, a bit of a serious lead. There is good gear with clean falls through the harder sections; shouldn't be a problem if you have small gear and are experienced placing it. Also the upper runout, is through easy and juggy terrain, with spaced, but bomber gear. After the lower section this upper part is insignificant. Still, given the necessity of technically well placed small gear, its probably not the best climb for inexperienced trad leaders.
By Alissa Doherty
From: Boston, MA
Aug 23, 2015

Agree that this is a serious lead. There is gear to be had but it is small, hard to place correctly, and at (or below) your feet for some hard moves. A very thoughtful lead and so rewarding if you can keep a cool head. The final runout is a blast! I found a 00 to be a key piece for me.
By Jim Lawyer
Aug 24, 2015

I don't believe this is a serious lead (serious to me means R or X), and here's why: Putting aside the runout at the top, you can place bomber gear always with the previous gear at your feet. The runout at the top is at the lesser grade of ~5.7, and although a fall from there would be BIG, it's all air, and the gear that protects this runout can be doubled and tripled up.

You don't get gear above your head for all the hard bits, so from that perspective, it is more engaging than some.
By Jim Lawyer
May 31, 2016

Regarding the direct: At the start of the traverse, go straight up. The crux at the angled ceiling is the protected by nuts in a corner below your feet; the top of this corner seems to be an unstable block. Hence the R rating.

It's a good lead, but best rehearsed on TR.
By aparnas
Jun 11, 2017

Boy I wish that finger crack went for another 20 feet! Fantastic locks! The corner felt a bit off balance, and the gear is small, but there.

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