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Flyboy 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 35'
Original:  YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: EFR, '90
Page Views: 686
Submitted By: Dominic Weinstock on Dec 2, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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BETA PHOTO: Cruxin

Description 

Really fun route that climbs the arete just right of Doughboy. Underclings, side pulls, crimpers, this thing packs it all in.

Location 

Starts on arete just right of Doughboy.

Protection 

Sport


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By 1Eric Rhicard
Nov 1, 2015
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b

This is a much better climb than I remember and well worth doing. I did the FA in a snow storm which may have colored my view of it. It may not be 12+ but it is closer to 12+ than 12-. It could also be that I am in much better shape than when I did the FA. Either way it is worth getting on.
By jbak
Nov 2, 2015

It's a very good route, E. Good send for way back then too.
By Joe Kreidel
From: San Antonio, TX
Nov 3, 2015

With beta and chalked up holds, felt like 12b to me. Not to take away from anyone else's proud send, but to encourage others to not be intimidated by the grade - for me Windy Point 12+ is usually one of those grades I'm leery of. It's a fun route, and a lot different than the other 12s around it. Great movement on a variety of side pulls, arete slapping and more.
By Dominic Weinstock
Nov 6, 2015

I'd say 12c/d is pretty spot on.......harder than Tsunami, and New Wave Direct ....IMO
By Austin Sobotka
From: Tucson, AZ
Dec 6, 2015

Took a few runs on this today thinking it was 12b (that's what my partner told me it was) and didn't think he had sand-bagged me. Also, one of us took a fall on the fourth bolt and noticed afterwards that it had partially pulled out from the wall. We took the hanger off so that nobody else gets on it and pulls the rest of the bolt out. This is a really fun route and definitely deserves (and needs) upgraded hardware!
By 1Eric Rhicard
Dec 8, 2015
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b

HARDWARE UPGRADED 12/8/15 Big thanks to CASA's A Team, Tendon Ropes and the ASCA.
theclimbershome.com/
mytendon.com/products
safeclimbing.org/

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