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Fly Trap 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Dan Hare
Page Views: 150
Submitted By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett on Feb 10, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (21)
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One move below the anchor.

Seasonal Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is Steeeep, the definition of jug-hauling. The start is a little spooky, up mank rock to a dicey looking, balanced block. Make sure your belayer is not directly below, take a deep breath, yard on this block, and keep yarding. This would get two stars except the crux seems to be clipping the lower-off bolts. These are right in the middle of a hard move, which is (for someone with a tiny brain like myself) pretty distracting: Clip and grab, or keep going? Best to pretend they are not there, because there are jugs three or four feet higher.

Protection 

Several bolts to a lower-off.


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By Chris Archer
Jun 14, 2004
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

I'd agree with Crusher's assessment: the anchors are in the middle of the crux. Would've been a better route if the anchors were moved up and another bolt added beneath them. Otherwise, strenous and somewhat inobvious sequences.
By Glen Charnoski
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 5, 2015
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

I also agree with Crusher about the anchor "crux" moves. I lead the thing, only to be staring at the anchor bolts holding a tenuous pinch 8 inches from the anchor, for what seemed like eternity, not knowing what to do, only to have no other option than to just fall off. Later, I realized I should have gone on past the anchor to the jugs to clip the anchor.

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