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Fly Swatter 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Dan Hare, 1990s
Page Views: 721
Submitted By: Jeff Lockyer on Aug 26, 2001

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  • Description 

    To find this route, on the lower buttress at Coney Island, look for a short 3 bolt route, just right of an arete to the east side of the lower buttress at Coney Island. The first bolt may be a little tricky to clip, as most, as the route seems to trend on the arete, while the bolts are on the face a little to the right. Don't fall while clipping any of these bolts, as you would meet the arete face to face (not fun). Overall a 0 star route, seems like someone was desperate to put something a little easier at this crag, but shouldn't have wasted the time. The crux may be the 2nd bolt area, clipping here. Do the 5.11a which is directly in front of you when coming up the trail. (Superb)


    Three bolts to two bolt chain anchor. (Up and left of the route)

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    By Peter Beal
    From: Boulder Colorado
    Sep 17, 2001

    I've done way worse than this. If you pay attention, it's pretty safe.
    By Jeff Lockyer
    From: Canmore, AB
    Sep 25, 2001

    Peter, I just came back to this crag to see if there were any additions to the site. Noticed your comment and thought you may share with us some other worse routes than this. I have yet to come across one sport climbing in the canyon, at least compared to the other 50-60 routes I have done here. Seriously.
    By Steve "Crusher" Bartlett
    Feb 10, 2002

    Fly Swatter is worth a star at least. It is fun. Technically easy, but kinda pumpy for being just vertical. Good warm-up. The 5.11a referrred to is of course The Bait. Now you mention it, just what is the worst sport route in Boulder Canyon? Once, after doing Fly Swatter, we tried the route just left, which seemed truly bilge. Seemed to be bolted just to avoid the obvious holds to left and right. Maybe this is one of the worst routes? Hmmm, actually some of the squeezed-in boltfests on Cornerstone or Sport Park must be worse.
    By Peter Beal
    From: Boulder Colorado
    Mar 7, 2002

    Thanks for the response, Jeff. Some routes that are pretty bad:

    Both routes on the Upper Bowling Alley wall, especially the right one (as noted by yourself).

    A few natural but very lame 5.10-ish routes at the Sport Park.

    Most of the easier climbs at Sherwood Forest (apologies to Richard Wright).

    That's what I can think of in the 5.10 range in Boulder Canyon. Obviously this is my opinion and doesn't imply that others might not enjoy these climbs. I don't have any real fondness for Fly Swatter, but it fits in with the nature of the cliff which is short and sharp. For me, a real sport climbing bomb has got to include most of the following: clear disregard for any later climber's safety, including loose rock, poor protection (location, quantity, and quality), and bad anchors (quality and location). Clear disregard for surroundings, including contrived or squeezed line, dangerous base, and proximity to highway. Clear disregard for aesthetics, including poor rock, lots of vegetation and lichen, cleaning scars, lots of glue, chipped holds, constantly wet rock, generic or wandering line, big jagged features, and awkward climbing. Now a lot of classic trad climbs include many of these things as part of the experience so I'm restricting this to sport climbing. And it's true that Fly Swatter has vegetation, screwy protection, and a bit of lichen. However, it also has a striking, uncontrived line, pretty good rock, and interesting climbing. I might give it a star at most, but it doesn't seem worth a bomb. A true bomb has to, in its own way be as special as a 5-star classic and just as rare.
    By Peter Beal
    From: Boulder Colorado
    Mar 7, 2002

    Let me respectfully disagree with Steve on the route just left. Although it may appear contrived, it is actually a fun short bouldery route and certainly not the worst route in Boulder Canyon.
    By Steve Woods
    Sep 14, 2003

    I just did the route today. It was not what I expected at all. I thought it would be a scary 10c slab and it turned out to be a fun, slightly overhanging arete, with lie-backs on good holds. I guess it depends on your perspective. ;-) I'd vote to give it a star.
    By Ken Cangi
    From: Eldorado Springs, CO
    Sep 9, 2007

    Definitely worth a star, and not a bad warm-up for the area.
    By Dean Cool
    From: Boulder, CO
    Apr 16, 2009

    I agree this route is awkward, the first bolt is high and tough to clip if you are short. Took a clean 12 footer from the 3rd bolt past the first. Any further would have put me on the ledge. I agree the 11a looks to be a better warm up. Does anyone know the name/rating of the climb to the right?

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