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Fly Low 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Kevin Capps
Page Views: 1,277
Submitted By: Derek Young on Sep 9, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (26)
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Finishing the last hard bit of Fly Low.... Great m...

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Description 

One of my friends says, "it's hyperclassic" when a route is a must do. The guidebook shows 4 stars and friends agree, so I'm posting this for them and for me. Give this one a shot. You can hang and retrieve your draws from the 5.9, so nothing can be lost.

Scamper up the ramper from the base of the fixed line to snag two bolts for safety status before climbing vertical. Trusting and semi-awkward moves for the takeoff from the ramp gets you into some great movement.

As you get up a few bolts and you're on the horizontal jug rests above, look right. As you to start getting to the same height as the anchors for the fixed line, start heading a bit more right because you are finishing and heading to the same anchors as the 5.9 "Fly High". Trending left and continuing into the 5.11 "Land of the Lost" would certainly make things interesting.

Location 

Head down the loose, crumbly area to the fixed line. Rap the fixed line to the nice staging area below. Fly Low starts by climbing back up the ramp and clipping two bolts on the way before going vertical. If you start climbing immediately at the base of the fixed line, you'll be setting out on "Land of the Lost" or its trad variation by the same name.

Protection 

10 bolts.


Photos of Fly Low Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Matty D. starting the crux section on Fly Low.... ...
Matty D. starting the crux section on Fly Low.... ...

Comments on Fly Low Add Comment
Show which comments
By DPug
Sep 9, 2015

The best 5.12, maybe even the best route I've done in the canyon yet.
By Kevin Capps
From: Golden, CO
Sep 9, 2015
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Thanks! It is one of my favorites as well!
By Chad Hammond
May 29, 2016

The left hand crimp at the crux broke. I was able to get through it making a big move there, but it might be a touch harder now.
By JASON A.
Jul 11, 2016
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

I was wondering why my old beta wasn't working.... Found new beta, which works but may be a slight bit harder.
By Parker Wrozek
From: Denver, CO
Oct 8, 2016

This route is fantastic. Those sharp crimps to big moves are brutal.

Got all the moves down, just need to link it now. Thanks for putting this one in.

Not sure what the old beta was, but I think I can see where the hold broke and could have made it a bit easier. It is a big move off those tiny crimps now though for sure.

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