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Fluid Mechanics 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a PG13

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 75'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a PG13 [details]
FA: K. Younge and B. Gillett
Season: Faces NW. Gets late afternoon sun
Page Views: 32
Submitted By: Tony B on Aug 9, 2010

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A route with a little of everything from jams to liebacks to chimney to face. The route is clean hard rock and takes good pro, if you bring a few wider pieces. Otherwise, the harder climbing is slightly runout, but perhaps only 5.8-. The route is fun and worth doing to summit the tower.


As you come out onto the West side of the top of the Third Tier, directly from the approach directions, you will come out onto a large grassy and shrubby ledge and look up towards the summit. A large corner system is directly overhead, with a black fistcrack leading up to a slanted handcrack, which disappears into a brief chimney section. Climb this up onto a ledge, then left to an overlap (2-2.5" cam) and past a single bolt onto a slab (crux) before reaching a final corner (fist and wider) which jams or lie-backs up to the summit anchor, 2 bolts with chains. Belay here, then rap with your partner 70' back to your original start below.


An otherwise light rack heavy on the fist-to-larger peices. A bolt is at the crux just above a red (2.5") Camalot placement.

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