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Flugle-Urf T 
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Flugle-Urf 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c PG13 [details]
FA: Olsen, M. & Haney, BC circa 1991
Season: Spring, Summer, Fall. am shade. pm sun.
Page Views: 77
Submitted By: BBQ on Apr 9, 2017

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Tater tasting

A rare combination of big and wide along with teenie and tiny. 

If you are the type of person who carries a Black Diamond #6 Camelot around to go sport climbing, well, here is your route. The struggle begins in a wide ass crack with a layback flake...where very little laybacking takes place...if you would rather stuff yourself into the gaping chasm and pretend to go caving. In all actuality, a large assortment of cam placements might save your butt from a fall, but the climbing here can only be described as a full on blue collar wide crack struggle from hell. Grab a stalactite at the end of the cave crack and get over the hump onto a face where the really fearful part of the climb begins. Enjoy the polemic opposite of the cave crack on a face of tiny ass nubbins and other insecure face moves all while clipping bolts that are close together when the climbing is easy and far apart from each other when the climbing makes you feel like you are going to poop your pants.

It is very good! Just a bit scary when the climbing gets hairy.


Between falling out the crack, and/or falling off the face higher up, this route earns a safety rating of PG-13 in the same way O.J. Simpson won that award for being the nicest murderer you ever met. The points is, most of us were pretty shocked, after all, he did run for over 2,000 yards before he got into that Bronco and ran for an even more impressive number of miles. The same can be said for this route, if you know what I mean. As much of a bastard as it is, however, this route should attract some die hard fans who still believe "The Juice" is innocent and global warming is a hoax. And for good reasons, even though it might not initially look like it, the route has very good rock quality along with a high number of sexy moves and should definitely be attempted by competent climbers who love a challenge without a long walk from the car.

Location 

When facing the wall, with your left hand pointing towards the road, this would be the 5th route from the left. Unmistakable wide crack start. This climb is a freak of nature that makes you want to ignore all the evidence presented and defend your own world view with statements like, "Well, that can't be right!"

Protection 

Big stuff. Long slings. 7 bolts protect the face climbing. Has its own independent anchors. Definitely in the category of "it sucks so bad that it is awesome" type of routes. Give it a chance before you bail.


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