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Fluffy Bunny 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c R [details]
FA: T. Leith, 1994
Season: faces South, and NOT for hot weather
Page Views: 138
Submitted By: Tony B on Oct 19, 2016

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  • Description 

    Fluffy bunny? Harmless rabbit? Well, it has HUUUUGE TEETH!

    This route was given 10a in the Levin Book, but I and a partner both thought it was quite substantially harder, and it is is harder in such a way and place, and at a runout, so as to be a serious problem on lead. Or perhaps it was just the weather and we were having a bad day.

    The climbing is good over all, however, and the route can easily be top-roped from P1 of The Red Dihedral, with a pin to the right of those for a directional.

    I spent quite some time trying to convince myself that the small hand holds and rounded pebbly foothold at the crux would hold me on my lead attempt prior to saying it wasn't worth it and backing off for a TR. I am pleased with my judgment on that call, as the crux there lead to an insecure move above, and then another.... from which I fell on TR. I saved myself a rough 30' fall, at least.

    Despite the sandbagging, I thought the route was good. In terms of move difficulty and protection, I'd describe it as the 'evil cousin' of the nearby routes 'The Offset' and 'Skink's Lip.'

    Location 

    This route lies just a few meters left of P1 of The Red Dihedral. It starts in a shallow, right-facing corner and then goes onto a sloping ledge to the left above. From there, face climb up and right (perhaps dangerously) into a hanging crack through a bulge just left of the arete. Climb 80' in total to an anchor just to the left of the start of the climb, with a pin just before it as a directional.

    Protection 

    A few bits of gear up 40' to a ledge that leans up and left. Protect in the crack above the ledge, then climb up and right 10-15' into a crack below a tree with strenuous protection available there once established in it (5.10 climbing as well). If you fall before that, you will be spun sideways on a long fall back into a corner below the ledge for a rib and head cracking landing....

    Continue above in the 0.5-2" crack to the tree, then up the 5.5 climbing for 20+' above the tree, which is secure and not of much concern. Clip a pin, and step left to the anchors on P1 of The Red Dihedral.


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    By Joseffa Meir
    Oct 19, 2016

    Agree it was not 10a or even near 10a and was worth doing on second with some fun moves.

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