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Flowing Chi Wall
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Baba D Sadhu T,S 
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Flowing Chi 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Mike Howard & Joel Tinl
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 596
Submitted By: Mike Howard on Aug 21, 2010

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BETA PHOTO: Curving handcrack at right center of pic in gray r...

Caution: Poison-Ivy MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Arching hand crack in shallow corner. Crux at last moves. Clean, solid, gray basalt.

Location 

Gray rock, mid wall. Start up block pillar to reach crack.
Lower from chain anchor on boulder above climb. 70m rope preferred for rap, can use 60m but knot ends.

Protection 

Excellent, standard rack.


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By Teddy Malley
Mar 26, 2014
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

I guess I missed the part about this being in a shallow corner and tried to climb the arching handcrack that splits into two cracks in the middle of the face. it was fun if burly and a little loose until I got to where the two cracks join again and the protection disappears and the holds do too and the rock looks really sketch. then I bailed...fortunately could place a few decent pieces which I was able to retrieve while getting lowered off the correct line, which is indeed in the shallow corner to the right. more a pair of angling twin handcracks then a single arching handcrack. that is a fun and pretty clean route. solid 9plus
By Mike Howard
Administrator
Nov 19, 2016

Ah, so hard to find true adventure anymore. That other line looked like stiff fingers and no clear solution to the top. Good on ya to go for it! Ground up and spit out, must have felt in the moment. Glad you got down safe and got your gear. On the FA, I ran out of pro in the final 10 m of Flowing Chi and had to climb down to back clean a couple of pieces to use above and finished the route. I savoured that send.