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Flower Child 

Hueco: V5 Font: 6C

   
Type:  Boulder, 12'
Original:  Hueco: V5 Font: 6C [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 797
Submitted By: BDalhaus on Apr 23, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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Ian pondering the crux...

Description 

A relatively short power & compression problem with a crux toss up into the slopers of Flower Power. Sit start the bottomless arete in front of the tree on the left side of the boulder. Using a right hand sidepull/flake, a left hand pinch low on the arete, and a left heelhook, squeeze up to a triangular hold on the arete with your left hand. Now for the fun crux. Dyno right hand up to the slopers on the lip and hold the swing. Finish up Flower Power.



Location 

This problem is sitting directly across from the trail to the Upper Cliff, next to Locomotive Breath. Downclimb the slab opposite the trail.

Protection 

Pad


Photos of Flower Child Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Bryce just after making the crux move.
Bryce just after making the crux move.

Comments on Flower Child Add Comment
Show which comments
By BDalhaus
Administrator
From: Bangor, ME
May 4, 2009

Somebody needs to try this problem because I'm pretty sure I sandbagged it. It's a nice line with powerful moves, but it feels probably 2-3 grades harder than either Gadgetry or Professor.
By andyscott
From: Massachusetts
Mar 19, 2010

Tried the opening moves today and it felt hard. Definatley didn't think it was a v5 until i saw it graded here
By matthewWallace
From: Sandwich, NH
Nov 11, 2012
rating: V5 6C

I tried this today and agree it feels a much harder than V5. Not sure where it will land but it do believe it is sandbagged.
By matthewWallace
From: Sandwich, NH
Jul 27, 2013
rating: V5 6C

So I got back on this rig today and was able to send it. I used different beta (thanks for finding it Lee) then what is described above. I toe-hooked out right and tossed up to the slopers with my right hand before going to the bad triangle hold with my left. Felt right around v5 for me this way. Has anyone else tried this beta?
By BDalhaus
Administrator
From: Bangor, ME
Aug 27, 2013

I'll have to give it a try. Did you start with a toe hook before pulling off the ground?
By matthewWallace
From: Sandwich, NH
Aug 27, 2013
rating: V5 6C

Yeah, when I was on the ground I stuck my right foot way out to the right and toe hooked on a little horn around the corner, makes the first move static and not at all desperate.
By matt major
Nov 12, 2013

I got on this yesterday and discovered the toehook beta as well. I think I like the left heel hook better than the toehook but I was tired and not able to stick with either method. It felt about the same grade either way but like I said I haven't sent. I think its crazy how many fun problems like this I walk by every time i'm at Pawtuckaway. I'll let you know what I think about the grade when I send.
By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Jul 17, 2014
rating: V5 6C

The toe hook makes this problem quite enjoyable and likely easier than your original method, Bryce. It should be noted that if you're on the short side, the toe hook beta might not even be possible.
By Ian McAfee
From: Concord, NH
Jul 28, 2015

I'll echo the toe hook sentiment, I was able to wedge my right foot into the start hold of Flower Power, footjam i guess, which made going right hand first not bad at all. Without that, I think this problem would be a few grades harder than it currently is listed. I did this second try(first try sans-footjam), and flower power like 10th try or something though so who knows. . .
By Brad Fauteux
From: Henniker, NH
Sep 14, 2016
rating: V5 6C

Toe cam/ toe hook felt bad and really reachy for me. Was closer with the left heel beta. The throw is kind of weird to set up for, and the heel kept popping. I will try to turn it into a toe scum and squeeze with my right foot under the small roof next time. Wasn't sure if I should toss straight up or out right. Both are about equidistant.

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