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Madness Cave
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BOHICA S 
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Flour Power 

YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Chris Martin - 1997
Page Views: 2,260
Submitted By: yevquest on Nov 23, 2010

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Description 

Flour Power is one of the two classic 13bs (BOHICA being the other one) that climb partway out the super steep Madness Cave. A slightly odd start (make sure your belayer is paying attention, a fall could lead to a swing into a boulder) leads to sweet, steep jug climbing There are some slopers here and there but overall nothing is too bad. This leads to a nice sit down rest at the base of the big roof. If the route ended here it would be a 5 star 12a but there's still so much to go.

Once recovered, launch out the 40 degree roof on a variety of holds, heavy on open handed mini jugs. None of the clips are too bad but there are some smaller holds in between them. The goal of this section is to get through 40 feet of continuous climbing to a fantastic rest on jugs and hand jams. From the rest a cool bouldery section leads right and up, passing the last bolt (many people skip) to the anchor clipping jug.

Location 

Third route from the left in the Madness Cave starting under a roof on a pointy boulder.

Protection 

Bolts and Fixed Draws


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