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YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: unknown to me
Page Views: 742
Submitted By: Tony B on Jun 5, 2005

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Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>


On the East Face of the Biship, near the right-hand edge is a crack system starting from atop a large boulder at the base. This is visible as route #4 in the attached picture, not #5 as mis-stated in the text of the photo. (#5 is grouper- not that there is no Route #4 listed or pictured)

The route climbs up and right in a flaring wide crack for a few meters, then cuts sharply up and left out of a bulge/small roof formed by a huge hanging flake. This is done on a finger and hand crack. This short section is the crux, particularly getting up into the splitter hand crack above. There is good gear there, which is good, because I saw that climb spit off a few 5.11 leaders (who had just on-sighted a 5.11b). Continue climbing on good moves and good gear to a belay stance and anchor.

If desired, continue climbing the OW 2nd pitch to the top of the rock. I can not further elaborate on that since I did not do it, but am hoping that someone will submit a 2nd pitch description as a "correction" to replace this paragraph.

The center anchor needs some old crap removed and a second new piece installed, but I did not have enough to finish the job. The upper left bolt also needs to be replaced someday... it's pretty bad and getting worse.


For the first pitch (crux, 5.10c), a single set of nuts and a single set of cams to 3inches. A larger cam can be placed up top for the faint of heart. There is an anchor on 2 bolts (1 good, 1 bad) that can serve as a rap or belay to the right of the ledge.The second pitch is WIDE WIDE (5.9), and you can take up whatever looks like it may fit.

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