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5 - Bishop
Routes Sorted
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Castle S 
Cornickopia S 
Flogging the Bishop S 
Heelium S 
Nuts and Bolts T,S 
Sacramental Whining S 
Spanish American Match S 

Flogging the Bishop 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Eric Richard, Jim Scott 2008
New Route: Yes
Season: Best =Late Winter, Early Spring, Late Fall
Page Views: 898
Submitted By: Christian on Nov 23, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
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Dave M getting the route done nicely.


Technical climbing leads to an overlap and an exciting run to the anchors.


Directly climber's left of "Heelium"



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By Christian
From: Casa do Cacete
Nov 23, 2011

I added this route as PG-13, not for the protection, but because of a squarish block about the size of a basketball in the overlaps towards the top that's starting to fracture. It may last for years but will eventually come off. ( it's toward the left higher side of the overlap, will try to mark it next time I'm there). Also would give this route 3 stars except for poor rock quality in that area.

By Jimbo
Nov 24, 2011

Christian you bottom feeder. Why not bring up a pry bar the next time you go and pry the block off.
Come on man pitch in!! Are we not a community!
By Christian
From: Casa do Cacete
Apr 23, 2012

I think the block has been removed or reinforced, so I removed the safety rating.

P.S. Jim, I'm not gonna start hacking at someone's route without a second opinion, so it was just a heads-up.
By Jimbo
Feb 11, 2013

You don't need a second opinion to pry a loose block off.

I think the block your talking about is gone now anyway. The top is quite a bit harder now.
By Christian
From: Casa do Cacete
Feb 17, 2013

I said "fractured", not "loose". I was there last week and it seems fine around that area, so I have no idea whether something physically changed or I was overreacting to begin with.

It was probably not too long after Kreidel pulled off a huge block (and part of an established hold) when I was belaying him at Milagrosa. It landed a few inches behind my head, but only because I was watching him carefully and had some extra time to step forward.

P.S. The top seems like it should be easy but it's tricky as hell, not even close to sending the stupid thing lol
By jbak
Apr 13, 2016

I think it's worthwhile to use a foot-long draw on the first bolt of Heelium as a keeper on Flogging. That would avoid a bad tumble if something breaks or something goes wrong, AND it takes clotheslining at the first crux out of the picture.
By 1Eric Rhicard
Dec 23, 2016

One of my favorite 12s on the mountain.
By jbak
Dec 24, 2016

Agreed. It is a very nice collection of unusual holds.

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