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Floating World 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 400', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Bob Branscomb, Ed DeLong 2007/08
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,030
Submitted By: bob branscomb on Feb 13, 2009

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BETA PHOTO: Start of Floating World. View full size and you ca...

Sticky situation MORE INFO >>>


Involves 2-60m pitches. 60m ropes are required. The crux of the first pitch is on the first steep section: thin face and smearing but very well protected. At the top of this first section, move right into a broad trough (two single runners useful) and up to the anchor.
The original second pitch goes up the deep trough above. This is about 5.8 and is good.
A more aesthetic and challenging second pitch, completed in Spr 2008, is to go to the first bolt on the second pitch, then friction up and left into the very shallow, steep looking trough out there. Climb through two or three 10a sections of smearing and thin face to the anchor. This pitch, having a separate history and psyche, is called The Shape of Our Deformity and is rated 10a.
The combination of the first pitch of Floating World (10b) and the Shape of Our Deformity (10a) makes for an outstanding climb and the hardest on the Moonstone to this date.


As you arrive at Moonstone, there is an open area to the right. A beautiful, steeper wall is defined between a long left facing corner on the right edge (Where Across the Globe begins) and a long right leaning crack system on it's left.
Park and walk up to the base (30 secs) of the steep lower part of this wall, capped by a long narrow roof. Floating World starts in some aspens near the right end of this wall. Many bolts leading straight up the face define the start of the route.


Bolts (3/8" Fixx), about 17 clips, one or two as single length runners. Fixx ring anchors on all pitches: need two 60m ropes to descend.

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By bob branscomb
From: Lander, WY
Nov 7, 2016

Watkins and I did what I think is probably only the second ascent of the alternate second pitch, The Shape of Our Deformity on 11/5/16. Still think it's 10a and what a great pitch, if I say so myself. 2-3 sections of 9+/10a up there...mainly smearing, not much edging.

We did the first pitch of Floating World+The Shape of our Deformity...makes for two pretty stout pitches and probably the hardest route still on this face of Moonstone. Still think the first pitch is 10b. Managed to rp both pitches so I'm feeling pretty good about the old guy today.

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