Type: | Trad, 1500 ft (455 m), 7 pitches, Grade III |
FA: | Andrew Fulton, Dan Briley mid '90s |
Page Views: | 1,153 total · 14/month |
Shared By: | SenorDB on Jul 29, 2017 |
Admins: | Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc, Justin Johnsen |
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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
We climbed up and left out of the north gully on a steep, dark face down low to gain the bushy ramp up to the base of the pillars. This first pitch turned out to be the crux of the route at 5.9 but there’re many ways to reach this ramp and the rest of the climb was 5.8 or less. Boulder, scramble, and short rope to the toe of the left pillar. Climb easy face and cracks up and left to the bottom of a long, shallow, right-facing dihedral. This dihedral is the right side of a rib of rock that forms a shallow arch. Step left and climb thin cracks up the center of the arch. When this feature merges back into the wall, go up and slightly right through a runout section of easy friction. Aim for a thin crack that ends a few feet above the friction slab, make a couple of committing moves on steep rock to reach the crack (and pro!) and belay above the short headwall. Follow cracks up the middle of the pillar to the top.
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