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Bonnie's Pillar
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Floating Rib T 

Floating Rib 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 7 pitches, 1500', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Andrew Fulton, Dan Briley mid '90s
Season: Fall, Winter, Spring
Page Views: 50
Submitted By: DesertDan on Jul 29, 2017

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The upper section of Floating Rib, this part's abo...

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

We climbed up and left out of the north gully on a steep, dark face down low to gain the bushy ramp up to the base of the pillars. This first pitch turned out to be the crux of the route at 5.9 but there’re many ways to reach this ramp and the rest of the climb was 5.8 or less. Boulder, scramble, and short rope to the toe of the left pillar. Climb easy face and cracks up and left to the bottom of a long, shallow, right-facing dihedral. This dihedral is the right side of a rib of rock that forms a shallow arch. Step left and climb thin cracks up the center of the arch. When this feature merges back into the wall, go up and slightly right through a runout section of easy friction. Aim for a thin crack that ends a few feet above the friction slab, make a couple of committing moves on steep rock to reach the crack (and pro!) and belay above the short headwall. Follow cracks up the middle of the pillar to the top.

Location 

On the east side of north Sandstone Mt, just south of the mouth of Sandstone Canyon.

Protection 

Double rack of cams up to #3, 1 #4, set of stoppers.


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