|Type:||Sport, 1 pitch|
|Original:||YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]|
|Submitted By:||Alan Nelson on Sep 4, 2001|
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By Mark E Dixon
From: Sprezzatura, Someday
Nov 9, 2016
The crux on this route is pretty entertaining and makes up for the vegetated approach. The upper slab is ok although maybe not as good as its neighbors on the lower wall.
Conditions have changed a bit since 2001.
Climb blocks, and step carefully around dirt until the second bolt. A long sling is advised on this one. Don't clip the third bolt on Up a Creek, rather reach (or move) around the corner to the left and clip the third bolt on FT.
Climbing past this bolt has cleaned up and is a little licheny but not overgrown. Pre-clipping this bolt would make your life easier.
The 4th bolt can be clipped long or short. A 17 cm sling gives a little rope drag on the final slab but nothing too irritating.
The 5th bolt, just over the roof, would be difficult to hang on lead, especially, since it's difficult to see from below. I pre-hung it after warming up on an adjacent line. Kudos for improving on my style.
My final sequence involved 3 different heel hooks, with a little sloper crimping thrown in.
Kind of a diamond in the rough, I was glad I finally got on it.