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River Wall
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Float Trip 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Alan Nelson
Page Views: 425
Submitted By: Alan Nelson on Sep 4, 2001

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Raptor Closures - 2016 Tunnel 2 Closure Lifted / Upper Canyon Road closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is a product of the "Summer 2000 River Wall Fill In The Blanks Tour", and the most difficult line on the lower wall. From the ledge at the water's edge, head up through the forest and blocks for three bolts (shared with "Up A Creek"). Step left from the third clip, reach around the corner and hang a long sling on the fourth bolt. Unclip the third bolt, then pull a well vegetated 5.11+ crux past the bolt. Get established under the roof and clip short on the bolt in the roof. Clip a long sling on the bolt as well. Pull up on sloping pinches on the left and make a blind clip for a bolt just over the lip. Once you've got it, extend the clip in the roof. The crux is pulling over the lip (think 5.12a sloping crimp mantle). Rejoin "Up A Creek" for a slab hike to the anchors.

DON'T TOPROPE THIS ROUTE UNLESS YOU WANT YOUR ROPE CUT! There is a sharp edge extending about 15' left and right along the lip of the overhang. It has been rounded off, but any swinging across the edge on a rope under tension WILL CUT YOUR ROPE!

Protection 

10 bolts to a two bolt anchor with rings. Three long slings to ease rope drag.


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By Mark E Dixon
From: Sprezzatura, Someday
Nov 9, 2016

The crux on this route is pretty entertaining and makes up for the vegetated approach. The upper slab is ok although maybe not as good as its neighbors on the lower wall.

Conditions have changed a bit since 2001.

Spoiler alert:

Climb blocks, and step carefully around dirt until the second bolt. A long sling is advised on this one. Don't clip the third bolt on Up a Creek, rather reach (or move) around the corner to the left and clip the third bolt on FT.
Climbing past this bolt has cleaned up and is a little licheny but not overgrown. Pre-clipping this bolt would make your life easier.

The 4th bolt can be clipped long or short. A 17 cm sling gives a little rope drag on the final slab but nothing too irritating.

The 5th bolt, just over the roof, would be difficult to hang on lead, especially, since it's difficult to see from below. I pre-hung it after warming up on an adjacent line. Kudos for improving on my style.

My final sequence involved 3 different heel hooks, with a little sloper crimping thrown in.

Kind of a diamond in the rough, I was glad I finally got on it.