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R Wall (aka P Face)
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Bench TR 
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Float Like a Butterfly TR 
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One Hundred in the Shade TR 
Reverberation TR 
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Seagull T 

Float Like a Butterfly 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 30'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
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Page Views: 97
Submitted By: dragons on Dec 9, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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BETA PHOTO: R Wall topo - left.

Description 

The route goes straight up. The first 20 feet or so is pretty smooth slab, although it's not horribly steep. Climbing this slab is the crux. Above that are giant blocks that you can easily clamber up to get to the anchor.

The good part is that there are a few features on the slab that you can lock onto. The bad part is that there's graffiti at the bottom, making it a little tough to get off the ground.

Location 

The route is identified as the left-most route on R Wall in Boston Rocks guide. If you come into the quarry and walk towards Knight's Wall, it's to the left, around the corner.

If you walk around R Wall, you'll see a large block jutting up, with a bent pipe about 20 feet to the right of it. This route goes straight up towards that tall jutting block. Currently, the route follows some light green paint drizzled down from some blocks that are below that above-mentioned jutting block. There's a "Kilroy Was Here" graffiti slightly to the left of the start. See attached photo.

Protection 

There's a sturdy metal staple at the top, close to the edge (5-10 feet away). There are also several metal pipes sticking up further back which can be used for anchors (20 feet away).

It looked like my slings would get abraded when hanging over the edge, because they tended to slip into a tight, rough crack between the rocks. I pushed a scrap of sling down in the crack to prevent this from happening.


Photos of Float Like a Butterfly Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Catherine already past the slab, now floating like...
Catherine already past the slab, now floating like...
Rock Climbing Photo: Float Like a Butterfly follows the light drizzle o...
BETA PHOTO: Float Like a Butterfly follows the light drizzle o...

Comments on Float Like a Butterfly Add Comment
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By Bryce Shumate
From: Boston, Massachusetts
Apr 18, 2017

This route would be A LOT more fun if the first part of this climb wasn't caked with graffiti. The top part is super fun though.

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