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B. Middle Cliff Routes
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Boaty's Birthday S 
Breaking the Wishbone T,TR 
Compound Fracture T 
Family Picnic S 
Flippin the bird T 
Fuck Rumney T 
Golf Ball Sized Urethra  T,TR 
Maybe God's a Trad Climber T 
Mountaineers Route, The T 
Traction Splint  T 

Flippin the bird 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Dylan Oliver, Conor Mark 8/1/16
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 392
Submitted By: doliver Oliver on Aug 4, 2016

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start of second pitch

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  • Description 

    The obvious chimney just right of Fuck Rumney, seriously classic pitch the reminded me of some of the climbing at Pokomoonshine.

    P1: Gain the chimney by climbing the perpetually wet corner on the right, wet but positive holds with a couple good jams and gear along the way. Dry your shoes off at the small ledge right below the chimney proper and then worm your way up the bottom groove. Move out right as the chimney widens to a powerful crux up to gain the top of the flake then continue trending right until you gain the upper right-facing corner. Cruise through this sweet 5.8 corner to a 2-bolt belay on a small ledge next to a warped tree.

    P2: Traverse right from the belay moving slightly higher to a larger ledge. Traverse to the far right side of this ledge and move up on good holds to a nice featured slab. Run it out up the featured slab keeping an eye out for a few gear placements, then pull a steep face on great holds to gain the top. Scramble off left to the snap crackle pop decent or find one of the many rappel anchors over on the left side. A top rap anchor is soon to come for this section of the cliff

    Location 

    The obvious chimney just right of Fuck Rumney.

    Protection 

    Gear to 4" will work though you can get a couple 6" and 5" pieces in the upper corner, double rack of larger sizes is definitely helpful on first pitch especially 4"


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    By Kris Fiore
    Administrator
    From: Burlington, Vermont
    Aug 5, 2016

    Psyched you finally got in this thing! You've been drooling over it for years now!!
    By Conor Mark
    From: Asheville, NC
    Aug 20, 2016

    A classic of the cliff, and of Bolton Valley in general.

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