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Boaty's Birthday S 
Boys Are Back at Bone, The T 
Breaking the Wishbone T,TR 
Compound Fracture T 
Family Picnic S 
Flippin the bird T 
Fuck Rumney T 
Golf Ball Sized Urethra  T,TR 
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Flippin the bird 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Dylan Oliver, Conor Mark 8/1/16
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 485
Submitted By: doliver on Aug 4, 2016

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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start of second pitch

Seasonal Raptor Closures for access issues: please review


The obvious chimney just right of Fuck Rumney, seriously classic pitch the reminded me of some of the climbing at Pokomoonshine.

P1: Gain the chimney by climbing the perpetually wet corner on the right, wet but positive holds with a couple good jams and gear along the way. Dry your shoes off at the small ledge right below the chimney proper and then worm your way up the bottom groove. Move out right as the chimney widens to a powerful crux up to gain the top of the flake then continue trending right until you gain the upper right-facing corner. Cruise through this sweet 5.8 corner to a 2-bolt belay on a small ledge next to a warped tree.

P2: Traverse right from the belay moving slightly higher to a larger ledge. Traverse to the far right side of this ledge and move up on good holds to a nice featured slab. Run it out up the featured slab keeping an eye out for a few gear placements, then pull a steep face on great holds to gain the top. Scramble off left to the snap crackle pop decent or find one of the many rappel anchors over on the left side. A top rap anchor is soon to come for this section of the cliff


The obvious chimney just right of Fuck Rumney.


Gear to 4" will work though you can get a couple 6" and 5" pieces in the upper corner, double rack of larger sizes is definitely helpful on first pitch especially 4"

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By Kris Fiore
From: Burlington, Vermont
Aug 5, 2016

Psyched you finally got in this thing! You've been drooling over it for years now!!
By Conor Mark
From: Asheville, NC
Aug 20, 2016

A classic of the cliff, and of Bolton Valley in general.
By Trevor Livingston
Oct 8, 2017

Tons of fun! The crux chimney/ stemming moves are wild and somewhat physical. The route can be adequately protected (some moderate runout on the easier upper corner) with nothing more than a #4 c4, though a #5 was nice to have. It is still dirty, but everything that needs to be solid is. Needs more traffic so get on it!

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