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Cerberus Gendarme
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Flip of a Coin 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
Page Views: 1,289
Submitted By: Michael Schneiter on Dec 19, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Flip of a Coin

Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>


Climb the open-book corner before traversing right underneath the roof on heucos, to the anchor up and right. The corner is pretty awkward and we found it to be rather dirty because it doesn't seem to get done as much.

An enjoyable climb but not as classic as the other pure splitters at the base of the Cerberus Gendarme.


Right of Intruder is the Aton/Allison/Stern route, in the more jumbled mess of sandstone. Right of that is a clean looking open-book corner capped by a roof. That's Flip of a Coin; it's maybe 75 feet right of Intruder.


A selection of cams with nothing bigger than a gold Camalot (I think).

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By bheller
From: SL UT
Nov 10, 2008

This climb is fun, and not as hard as it looks. It is more of a flare than an open book- at least until you get to the top and the flare opens up. Once you get in the flare, you can chimney with knee-bars all the way up to the short lieback at the top. It was dirty, mouse shitty and doesn't seem to get done often. We cleaned it up. My friend Josh added another bolt at the top of the corner under the roof- so there is no need to traverse on huecos out above and right to the original anchor. The original anchor may have been used to access the seperate crack system above Flip of a Coin, but it seemed so illogical for the first pitch of this route to end out there. Hopefully more people will climb this route now. Fingers to hands size gear with extras in the tight hands and off-fingers sizes.
By Ray Hellinger
From: Gunnison, CO
Apr 10, 2015

The guidebook gives this an 11-, which I would agree with. The gear I would take is: 2 x #0.4/0.5, 3 or 4 x #0.75/1, 2 x #2and 1 x #3 (these are BD camalots sizes). I even placed a nice #4 early on, but it's not necessary. Overall, I thought this was a really good climb.
By mpech
Feb 7, 2017

pretty fun climb, though a bit sandy. Feels almost like a yosemite climb-- lots of chimney/arm-bar on this one.

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