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Slhanay (The Squaw)
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Astride my Indian Queen T 
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Flight Simulator 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 400'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: FA: Robin Barley, David Davies, 1983 FFA Craig McGee, Lori Obare, Brad White, 2003
Page Views: 485
Submitted By: Drewsky on Aug 5, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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A photo with lots of contrast showing P1 and the P...


Once you see the second pitch corner from the ground, it's hard not to want to climb it. The other pitches are fine too and the crux pitch, move for move, may be harder, but the corner is certainly the focal point of this climb.

P1: Short, slightly flaring finger and thin hand crack. If the second pitch is .11d, this one is probably more like .10d or .11a. In any case, the crux is short lived.

P2: Bolted slab climbing leads to a tough move entering the corner. The crack in the clean, shallow corner is thin, incipient and the climbing very technical. The crux is even thinner and when the corner disappears you really have to battle it out to get the jams to stick. Classy!

P3: Three bolts protect a face that appears to blank out as it moves up and right towards a horizontal crack. This section is crimpy, but magical granite foot moves are the real key to success. The climbing eases above the horizontal and heads back left to another anchor.

P4: A short and slightly painful finger crack in a flare eases quickly to a fun thin hand crack. Rap the route or belay and move up a little and walk off to the right. It's also possible to keep climbing up through an easy little bulge to the top of Slhanay and walk off from there.


The first pitch is the obvious short, clean, flaring finger crack around to the right and up the trail a little from Supernatural and Jungle Warfare. One could easily rap the route with one 70m rope (possibly even a 60m if careful on the P2-P1 rap) or just as easily walk off as per the aforementioned routes or the Great Game/Drain. The walkoff begins just a few feet above the final anchor.


A single rack to blue #3 Camalot with extra finger size pieces was sufficient. Nuts provide extra options and are useful but may not be strictly necessary; I believe I placed a total of two on the climb and the RP's didn't get any use. Anchors are all bolted and equipped for easy rappels with a single 70m rope. The rock on Slhanay is coarsely grained with a lot of sharp quartz crystals; this climb is slightly painful at times and tape might be desirable, especially on P2. If it's sunny, the crux face pitch feels harder than it should.

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