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Flight Simulator 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 85'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: McNamara
Page Views: 741
Submitted By: caughtinside on Nov 20, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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Hard to believe this appealing looking steep hand crack wasn't climbed until the early 2000s!

This crack gets on you right away as the angle kicks back and the crack pinches down to mega thin hands before opening into a 4" or so pod that presents some difficulties. Gear can be crispy through here so take care, maybe double up in the solid crack below. Pulling through and up into the lower angle handcrack above sees the difficuly ease.

From the top of the little tower you'll see you're only halfway done with the route. Set some gear, sling it long and step off left across the face, targeting the first of a three bolt line. The slab shouldn't be a problem if you pulled the low crux, and it does take some small nuts and cams to supplement the bolts.


On the corner of the block before you get up to the Crackula/Buster Brown wall. Just past that bolted chimney and the Off the Wall pinnacle.


Standard rack. 3 bolts on the route, bolted lower off anchor

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By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Nov 20, 2011

I tried to call this thing .10d after I did it but just got a look of disgust from a long time Eagle Lake climber. Must have just been having a good day.
By Aerili
From: Los Alamos, NM
Nov 30, 2011

I remember that! I'm still more on your side than his.

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