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Flight Risk 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Ian Kirk 2014
Page Views: 57
Submitted By: Shirtless Mike on Oct 31, 2016

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Description 

After stickclipping the first bolt, step off a small boulder and engage with small crimps and a few big moves to some good holds to clip the second bolt. Move slightly right to a good but dirty crimp and pull a sketchy mantle on dirty holds to get established on the face above and the third bolt. Make slightly terrifying moves up a small corner system with dirty chossy holds to get to the 4th bolt, and a good ledge. From here the climbing gets much more enjoyable and less dirty. Continue up the overhanging face on good holds (11-) and enjoyable sequences. At the anchors things begin to slab out with a few tricky moves to gain and clip the anchors.

Location 

Far right side of Alcatraz. There is one red-tagged project past this. To the left is "Sweet Petunia" 10d.

Protection 

13 Bolts to Anchors, Stickclip, FULL 60m rope.


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By Shirtless Mike
Administrator
From: Denver, CO
Oct 31, 2016

With some more traffic, this should clean up to be three stars. The upper headwall should be really fun. So bring a brush for now.

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