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700S Boulders
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Beer Crack T 
Crystal Ladder 
Flight of The Owl T 
Gollum's Got a Gun T 
Public Consumption T 
Unknown 2 T 
Unknown 1 T 
Unknown Offwidth 
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Flight of The Owl 

Hueco: V3 Font: 6A

   
Type:  Trad, Boulder, 20'
Original:  Hueco: V3 Font: 6A [details]
FA: Justin Edl and Rob Phares, 2009
Page Views: 1,684
Submitted By: JNE on May 27, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is a very nice delicate splitter tips highball. You have to hunt around to find the good locks, which are sharp and for the most part very positive. Where the crack rocks over you will find big pisitive lie backs as well as more locker thin tips jams. Finish by making a long reach to the obvious cobble in the horizontal to the right of the bush, which is a jug. Down climb to the left upon reaching the obvious ledge. This crack is very distinct because it is has about three feet of forty five degree slab at the base of it. The hardest moves are at the top of the vertical section, but as soon as you step off the slab the climbing is fairly sustained as well as technical, sequential, and balancy.

Location 

It is on the cliffline a couple hundred yards to the climber's left of Unknown 1. This is the tall, thin, appealing splitter with the slab landing.

Protection 

A couple of pads and a spotter are nice, though the landing on this is unavoidably bad. This is more of a short solo really. You can make a jump off point with your pads but for the top you really just have to commit and do the moves.


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By JNE
May 27, 2009

I rap cleaned this thing prior to climbing it and dug quite a bit of dirt out of the three feet of crack below the bush (I also chalked all the holds). Eventually this will fill back up so if you need to rap in to clean it I would recommend hand to fist sized pieces for the anchor. Specifically I used a 3,3.5, and 4 Friend.
By Brian Scoggins
From: Laramie, WY
May 29, 2009

Is this the one you guys took Jesse and Tim and I out to? If so, nice work guys! I figured it'd go down pretty quick to somebody motivated.
By MasturJamBate
May 29, 2009

Rap cleaning a boulder problem? What about all of your "old School" rhetoric?
By JNE
May 30, 2009

Mr. Masturbater, let me remind you that I never claimed to hold aloft the "old school" values. Simply put, this thing was really dirty up top. This is the first time I ever rap cleaned anything, and I'm glad I did it here. The result is a nice splitter mini solo that is hopefully clean of any funk that might make you slip off. This is a really good crack, Mr. Masturbater, so you should go check it out the next time you are in the area.
By JNE
Jul 21, 2009

After talking with a good number of people, I think this deserves an anchor. The available gear anchor is in an absolutely horrible place to toprope or even bring a second up on, so people agree that a set of bolts is warranted here. I have no access to a drill, or I would go add it myself.

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