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Flight of the Nuthatch 
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Flight of the Nuthatch 

Hueco: V7 Font: 7A+

Type:  Boulder, 15'
Original:  Hueco: V7 Font: 7A+ [details]
FA: ?
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 91
Submitted By: Dan Pfistner on Sep 12, 2014

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The Flight.


This is one of the most well-rounded and consistently challenging lines in the area!

Sit start using an okay edge under the roof, and very challenging feet. Using a remarkable combination of technical footwork, finger strength, flexibility, balance, and body tension, make a tough move around the lip to a small crimp and try to keep your feet on. Adjust and find a good crimp above the lip with your left. Adjust again, and make a reach to a good crimp that will allow you to get past the lip (crux), and finish up the easy slab arête.

Once on top, take a nap on the sunny platform (optional) before hopping off at the start of the Grand Traverse.

A squat start that begins on the two opposed, slanting crimps above the lip is a good variation that goes around V4/5.


It is opposite the start of the Grand Traverse, or across the corridor from North Side Slabby, next to Little Agassiz.


A pad or two, watch out for the tree.

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By Dan Pfistner
Sep 12, 2014

Let me know if this has been done, and who/when/etc. There are lots of strong climbers lurking around Cape Ann it seems, and I'm hesitant to claim any first ascent, but I've never seen any chalk over here, so I thought I'd add it.

I gave it a name, because I didn't have any info and would appreciate any clarification - especially if this is a known problem and input on the grading.
By Old Timer
From: North Andover MA
Sep 12, 2014


That's about right for the squat start on the lip with the crimp bar V4-5) and the sit under the roof is V7.

Pete (Old Timer)
By jim.dangle
Sep 22, 2014

Nice send, Dan.

I can sit start this reaching up to the arete with my left and the bottom of the ok crimp with my right, but the start way under the lip seemed really hard.

By Dan Pfistner
Sep 22, 2014

Haha, if I stack a second pad, I can reach that too I think, but features under there were too tempting to pass up!

It's a cool problem however you start it though.

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