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The Guardian
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Akhum-Rah T 
Brazen Hussie T 
Da-Nile T 
Flight of the Locusts T 
Gift, The T 
Hieroglyphic  T 
Sahara T 
Scarab, The T 
Sphinx, The T 
Valley of the Kings T 
Wing and a Prayer Project T 

Flight of the Locusts 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Mike Dobie
Season: Spring and fall are best pleasant crag in winter
Page Views: 94
Submitted By: RyderS on Apr 19, 2015

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A shot from the base of Flight of the Locusts. Pum...

Description 

A hybrid crack and face climb, Flight of the Locusts is a short but techy route that will require a bit more sport-climbing-esque sequencing than most routes in Liming.

Start on the right leaning crack 8 feet left of Akmun-Rah and around 20 feet right of Brazen Hussie.

Awkwardly stem your way off the ground (groin stretches beforehand might help) until you are forced into the crack. Powerful locking yields a small stance on the left face. Combo face-crack climb your way up until the crack forms a corner. Crank out the hard moves into the corner and continue to the chains, being aware of the face to your left. The bolts will be at a pedestal just above.

FA-er Mike Dobie has also put a bolted extension above this finish, and is currently thought to be about .13a.

Location 

20 feet right of Brazen Hussie and 8 feet left of Akmun Rah.

Protection 

- Single .2 X4 or equivalent TCU
- Doubles .3 - 1
- Optional 2 (replaces a 1)


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By Brandon Gottung
From: Moab, UT
Nov 21, 2015
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Awesome route to the first anchor despite its short length. 5.11d to the first anchor and nearly a number grade harder to the second anchor.