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The Gash
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Anal Sex T 
Bud's Route T 
Flicking the Bean T 
Gash, The T 
Hot Dogs T 
Jutting Flake T 
Nice n' Tight T 
R.F. Burnout T 
Slut T 
Trouser Snake S 
Unsorted Routes:

Flicking the Bean 

YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 105'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Mary Harlan, Jason Nelson
New Route: Yes
Season: Early spring, late fall
Page Views: 333
Submitted By: MaryH. on Mar 23, 2015

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BETA PHOTO: Plaque at head-height on top of starting block

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>

Description 

About 200 yds left of Bud's, start up some large blocks, angle right. You will be below a dihedral & a crack. Take the overlapping crack on the face, not the choss-filled dihedral. About 50 feet up it is possible to step left if you are tall, into a #4 crack, choose your own adventure, or stay right for a slightly more sustained outing. The 2 cracks converge a bit higher & traverse left on a hand traverse reminiscent of Way Rambo. Continue up the arcing crack to the anchors. 35m

Location 

Walk 200 yds left of Bud's route, passing a large dihedral with an unclimbed offwidth in it. Flicking the Bean is on the face left of the dihedral

Protection 

1 #4 cam, 1 #3 cam, 4 #2 cams, 2 #1 cams, 2 #.75 cams, 2 #.5 cams, for the right hand crack. More #4 & #3 cams for the left crack


Photos of Flicking the Bean Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: It's the crack on the right
BETA PHOTO: It's the crack on the right

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