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Flex 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Unknown, 1970's
Page Views: 163
Submitted By: Derrick Peppers on Oct 31, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This route starts on top of a block and moves right and up along a thin crack. Gear is minimal for the first 30 feet or so. gear gets better and climbing eases until the crux at a bulge. easy climbing to an anchor.

Location 

In the middle of Red Ryder butress. starts on top of a ledge of the ridge that seperates misery ridge from the rest of the red ryder butress.

Protection 

Pro to .75". anchors on top DO NOT have rap rings. bring webbing just in case there has been nothing slung recently.


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By Jacob Smith
From: Seattle, WA
Mar 28, 2014

If this is the route I think it is, I don't know about any hand jams...
Small gear is not so bad, crux comes above where a solid finger-size cam placement can be found.
Scariest part is the lichen-covered rock, this route is fun and needs more traffic!
By Derrick Peppers
From: everywhere
Mar 31, 2014

At this point, I can't really recall what the routes movement was like. I'll go climb it again this spring and fix the description if need be. Thanks for your recommendation Jacob. It is a good route.
By ForrestKaye
May 8, 2017

I Thought this route was very good and worth a trip over to the buttress just for it. Small nuts protect the start of crack well.

If taking it up to the 2nd anchors (which add a lot more fun climbing) bring some webbing to replace the existing stuff. When I got to the ledge the webbing was cut in half with the two rap rings laying loose on the rock. We just tied it back back together and used it but it was severely frayed.

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