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Adam Ant (aka Nuclear Ant Farm) S 
Color of My Potion S 
Fat Boys Don't Fly S 
Flesh-Eating Gnats S 
Got a Nightstick, Got a Gun, Got Time on My Hands S 
Greg Shredder T 
I Dogged Your Wife and She is a Doofus S 
Inflight Movie S 
Instant Dogma S 
L Dopa T 
Little Shop Of Horrors S 
Manic Crack (aka Left Twin Crack) T 
Manic Nirvana S 
Monsterpiece Theatre S 
Oscar de La Cholla T 
P.M.S. S 
Pathogenic Cysts S 
Polyester Terror T 
Putterman Cracks T 
Ralph's Dilemma T 
Ralph's Leisure Suit S 
Ralph's Revenge T 
Right Twin Crack (aka Lost Nerve) T 
Route 1 T 
Route 22 T 
Route 24 T 
Route 25 S 
Route 26 T 
Route 27 S 
Route 31 S 
Route 32 T 
Sardonic Smile S 
Scandanavian Airlines S 
Strong Urge to Fly S 
Wailing Banshees S 

Flesh-Eating Gnats 

YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Peter Gram, Brian Riepe, Tom MacFarlane, Chris Pollard, 5/89
Page Views: 1,866
Submitted By: George Perkins on Jun 22, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (23)
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Brian Riepe and Tom MacFarlane hand drilling Flesh...


One of the original sport climbs to go in at White Rock, "Gnats" climbs an amazing arete with possible moves on either side using pockets and small ledges. At the beginning, bypass the undercut roof to the left and reach around the arete to the right to clip the out-of-sight 1st bolt. It's a bit intimidating to get to the 2nd bolt but easier than it looks. As you move up farther, look for pockets on both sides of the arete and some stances on the arete itself. Up high, the rock becomes less featured and steeper, with a few bigger moves needed to get through the crux at the end.

Why's it called Flesh-Eating Gnats ?? Climb here in late summer evenings... you'll see.


Prominent arete between the two most obvious dihedrals (Ralph's Dilemma and Revenge).

Route 10 in Monomaniac's beta photo


5 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.

Photos of Flesh-Eating Gnats Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Jason Halladay moving into the crux sequence of Fl...
Jason Halladay moving into the crux sequence of Fl...
Rock Climbing Photo: Brian Riepe on the first ascent of Flesh Eating Gn...
Brian Riepe on the first ascent of Flesh Eating Gn...
Rock Climbing Photo: Really nice, sustained arete climbing.
Really nice, sustained arete climbing.

Comments on Flesh-Eating Gnats Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jason Halladay
From: Los Alamos, NM
Nov 2, 2009
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

The bolt spacing between bolts 1 and 2 on this line is pretty spacious and could possibly result in a not-so-fun fall. That said, I've never seen anyone fall in that area. We did discover a .3 camalot fits pretty decently in a horizontal between B1 and B2 but didn't fully load test it. Maybe just enough psychological pro to help the leader move up.
By Daniel Trugman
From: La Jolla, CA
Dec 4, 2009
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Having climbed "Flesh-Eating Gnats" and "Wailing Banshees" about the same amount of times now, I still think Gnats is the harder route. With Banshees, if you can hold on to jugs for 40 feet and have enough gas left in the tank to fire the crimpy exit sequence (which isn't *that* hard), the route is all yours. Gnats has some genuine hard cranks off smallish holds, moves that are relatively difficult, even without the pump-factor (which still exists, at least for me).

But no one else I've talked to thinks Gnats is harder, so I'll shut up now.
By Jason Young
From: Los Alamos, NM
May 2, 2012
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13

In addition to the left side start, I have done this route by approaching the first bolt from the right side and bouldering up and left to the second bolt. This has fun moves but is f'n scary. Either way it could use another bolt, or perhaps modified bolt placements.

I think this route is a bit harder than "Wailing Banshees" as well.

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