|Type:||Sport, 1 pitch, 60'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]|
|FA:||Vaino Kodas, Bob D'Antonio, 2002|
|Submitted By:||Ron Olsen on Jun 12, 2006|
|Seasonal Closure MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on Flesh Eating Flies||Add Comment|
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By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Aug 29, 2016
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
The single star I give this route is for movement and for what this roue might be if it cleans up. Frankly, I had a no-star experience on it.
The movement on a good route should be the product of limited holds, not forced by the fear that other existing holds will shed out from under you. Furthermore, the 'excitement' of a route should be more about the ability to do the moves, not the gambling aspect of each move, wondering if, or not, the holds you did settle on will crumble or not.
My experience on the routes was first standing at the bottom watching my partner closely as the grit and grains come down from the route on each move, then climbing it, brushing each hold as I went, producing the same. The grainy rock from each foot hold stuck under foot as I stepped off of the holds, putting more grit under foot one the next hold prior to that hold even shedding.
We cleaned this route to some degree, using our hands. Perhaps a concerted effort with a solid brush would clean this up much more, and perhaps all that is under that grit is more grit, and unless it sees regular traffic, it will never really be clean. Meanwhile, if I could give something 1/2 star, I'd have chosen that option. It does have potential, but for my ascent, it felt like a bomb.