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(c) Left of the Roof
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Flesh and Blood 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 105'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Louie Anderson, 2006
Season: All Seasons
Page Views: 3,799
Submitted By: Colin Parker on Jan 3, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (62)
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Greg Houston on Flesh and Blood. Photo by Steve C...

Open, with restrictions: Park on the street MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This route is an incredible and long moderate route, even by quarry standards. The route has two distinct cruxes, one at the bottom and one at the top, separated by sixty or so feet of fun climbing on good holds in stellar position. The climb starts on small holds under a bulge. Traverse right and up, then around the bulge to jugs. Continue over a series of ledges on good holds while the climb edges closer to the left-hand arete. After a nice rest on a small ledge 2/3's the way up, you pull a move up to a large slanting ledge and throw for a jug in the middle. Traverse right under the looming roof and prepare to surmount it up and left. A strenuous sequence here rewards you with the headwall and big holds to the anchors at the top of the cliff.

Location 

This is the first route in the Left of the Roof Sector. It's just around the corner from Metro. It starts directly in front of a bench which sits in front of a medium sized boulder. Currently the rating 11b is written on the wall at the bottom of the route.

Protection 

16 bolts to two-bolt anchor/rap. 70m rope recommended. You can climb this route with a 60m rope, but tie a knot on the belay-end when lowering and be very careful.


Photos of Flesh and Blood Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: A sea of granite.
A sea of granite.
Rock Climbing Photo: No shame in the TR.
No shame in the TR.
Rock Climbing Photo: Climbers at the Quarry 1-8-12
Climbers at the Quarry 1-8-12

Comments on Flesh and Blood Add Comment
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By Jan Tarculas
From: Riverside, Ca
Oct 17, 2010
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Location states that there is 11b rating written on the route...Few weeks back someone crossed that out and blasted it with chalk and wrote a HUGE 11c on it...so just look for the obvious 11c, but 11b in my opinion...crux move was just as hard as Delirious 11b. Awesome climb
By Clif Clap
Sep 4, 2014

I was told the second crux is actually easier than the first, which I thought was funny because it meant I was really pumped up there! Some notes:

-Rock is perfect.
-Lots of rest spots
-There's a bolt right at the start of the second crux. Though reachy, it's clippable and likely for many climbers, not just the tall. That said, pay attention! It's easy to backclip it since it's overhead and there are some traverse moves here.
By Christian B
From: West Hills, California
Mar 10, 2016

Route really earns it's name....Wasn't able to finish, got 1 bolt away from anchors and was DONE. Pumper town, especially if you are hitting this route later in the day such as I was. Fun for sure. Left a quick draw, orange mad rock. You're welcome who ever copes it! hah
By Sean Cooney
Jun 25, 2017

This route is great fun but wildly over bolted. There was one section where I finished a series of moves into a rest and there was a bolt at my shin and another within easy clipping distance above me. I did not clip the lower bolt and glad I didn't because it was placed in a recess and would have added drag with a standard draw. Hopefully as more routes are developed the FA parties will bolt on lead so the clips makes sense.
By Waveclimb
From: LA, CA
Jun 25, 2017

Sean you should try bolting one of these on lead. Let us know how that goes for you.

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