REI Community
Chimney Pond ("South") Basin - Summer Rock Routes
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
"Diamond Area", The T 
American Beauty T 
Armadillo, The T 
Baron's Direct  T 
Flatiron T 
Pamola 5.0 T 
Pamola IV Ridge T 
Radio Nowhere T 
Wrong Chimney, The T 


YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Ted Dillard and Russ Dubiel
Page Views: 2,028
Submitted By: Zak Munro on Aug 15, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Super close-up of the Flatiron

Winter climbing/hiking/mountaneering requires a permit


Approach same way as the Armadillo, then breakout right to the first grassy tier, take the traverse to the large slab that forms a cave.
P1: Head up diagonally left through finger crack and off width section, belay whenever convenient.
P2: Jam up awesome hand/fist/finger crack and pull small over lap. Belay wherever convenient then head up to ridge.


Single rack with possible #4 Camelot size piece. Extra hand size pieces are nice but not completely necessary.

Photos of Flatiron Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Flatiron and Rib to Summit Ridge
BETA PHOTO: Flatiron and Rib to Summit Ridge
Rock Climbing Photo: Flatiron
Rock Climbing Photo: View of a party on the Flatiron from the Armadillo...
View of a party on the Flatiron from the Armadillo...
Rock Climbing Photo: The Flat Iron (center right) and Armadillo (center...
The Flat Iron (center right) and Armadillo (center...

Comments on Flatiron Add Comment
Show which comments
By Robert Hall
From: North Conway, NH
Sep 9, 2015

FYI...there's a photo in the Armadillo section labeled "approaches from Chimney Pond" that would seem to work for the Flatiron as well.
By ndchu
Oct 10, 2016

This route is stellar, with more fun climbing than the more often climbed neighbor next door. We climbed it on a cloudy cold day in October. Those chilly jams felt good!

Approach: as for the armadillo, take the vegetated path around the lower head wall and then head up the "black gully" that comes down from in between the flatiron and the armadillo. As you head up the gully, traverse out right when you get about parrallel with the lower vegetated ledge of the armadillo. You see some foot prints heading out that look like they will run out of space to go, but keep going.

Start: from the cave formed by the big slab, you can start from the left or right side. From the right side looked a bit more natural to us. Following the cracks left, you traverse a vegetated ledge, which present two dihedrals above. The left dihedral looks more difficult and the right is certainly easier. Both have grass in them. The LEFT dihedral is the start of the money pitch you want. There is a piton there where you belay. If you take the right route, prepare for drag or making another anchor.

Money pitch: it's great. The first bit can be protected with a 3 or 4, but there is a section that's offwidth that will require bigger gear or running it out. Get your jam on.

The rangers will tell you that many rap off. I really can't see how this would be better than toping out. The blocks aren't that loose or sketchy, simul up and enjoy the summit, which is right next to you. More fun than a repeat of the bushwhack.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About