|Type:||Trad, 2 pitches, Grade III|
|Original:||YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]|
|FA:||Ted Dillard and Russ Dubiel|
|Submitted By:||Zak Munro on Aug 15, 2015|
|Winter climbing/hiking/mountaneering requires a permit|
|Comments on Flatiron||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Robert Hall
From: North Conway, NH
Sep 9, 2015
|FYI...there's a photo in the Armadillo section labeled "approaches from Chimney Pond" that would seem to work for the Flatiron as well.|
Oct 10, 2016
This route is stellar, with more fun climbing than the more often climbed neighbor next door. We climbed it on a cloudy cold day in October. Those chilly jams felt good!
Approach: as for the armadillo, take the vegetated path around the lower head wall and then head up the "black gully" that comes down from in between the flatiron and the armadillo. As you head up the gully, traverse out right when you get about parrallel with the lower vegetated ledge of the armadillo. You see some foot prints heading out that look like they will run out of space to go, but keep going.
Start: from the cave formed by the big slab, you can start from the left or right side. From the right side looked a bit more natural to us. Following the cracks left, you traverse a vegetated ledge, which present two dihedrals above. The left dihedral looks more difficult and the right is certainly easier. Both have grass in them. The LEFT dihedral is the start of the money pitch you want. There is a piton there where you belay. If you take the right route, prepare for drag or making another anchor.
Money pitch: it's great. The first bit can be protected with a 3 or 4, but there is a section that's offwidth that will require bigger gear or running it out. Get your jam on.
The rangers will tell you that many rap off. I really can't see how this would be better than toping out. The blocks aren't that loose or sketchy, simul up and enjoy the summit, which is right next to you. More fun than a repeat of the bushwhack.