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Flashdance 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a R

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a R [details]
FA: FA: Rick Reese, Dick Ream, Lloyd Anderson, 1963 FFA: George Lowe, Paul Andersen, 1966
Page Views: 2,341
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Aug 8, 2005

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flashdance

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  • Description 

    This is the thin seam that starts below and to the right of Pentapitch's final pitch. The moves to the crack are fine. The moves through the 2nd pin are very thin, and the face doesn't help that much. The tenuos nature of the moves doesn't lend oneself to dallying around and placing gear. Once to the 2nd pin, the route eases to a 5.9/5.8 difficulty with nice finger cracks and flaky rock. If climbed more it would be a better upper half.

    Protection 

    There are 2 old pins on the route, one that protects the crux. The anchor consists of "bad" slings around a tree. To TR it throw another sling around the tree as a directional and use Pentapitch's anchors. The gear through the thin section is just that...thin. I mocked it up, and could find nothing before the 2nd pin that would satisfy my need for gear. Above the 2nd pin, small to medium gear would work.


    Photos of Flashdance Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: flashdance
    flashdance
    Rock Climbing Photo: In the heat of battle with the almighty crux...oh,...
    In the heat of battle with the almighty crux...oh,...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Moving up to the next pin scar on Flashdance.  App...
    Moving up to the next pin scar on Flashdance. App...

    Comments on Flashdance Add Comment
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    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 31, 2017
    By bsmoot
    Jun 10, 2007

    Recent historical revelation: First free ascent: George Lowe & Paul Anderson, 1966
    By tenesmus
    Jun 19, 2007

    Mind blowing.
    By Ryan Brough
    From: Arvada, Colorado
    Jul 1, 2007
    rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13

    Protection would be adequate with some RPs, but you would have to place gear at your waist, otherwise there would be no room for your fingertips in those tiny pin scars. If the top were more like the crux section, I would project this climb in a heartbeat.
    By David Shiembob
    From: slc, ut
    Aug 28, 2007

    I somehow flashed this on TR today, so thoughts of a lead obviously enter my head... What's the verdict on the first pin? Has anybody fallen on it? Looks like it might be able to be backed up with a small piece in the pin scar below it, but that seems like the last reasonable placement through the crux sequence. There is a stance a little higher maybe I could place from. There are only a few really shitty pin scars on this thing, you're not that far above the pin when you're most likely to blow it...
    By tenesmus
    Aug 29, 2007

    00 tcu, bad brassies, maybe those tiny friends. the crux is placing them. I haven't been able to feel good about that pin. can you imagine placing pins on it like George did? during the onsite fa? in boots?
    By Allen Sanderson
    From: Oootah
    Sep 21, 2007

    More history - this actually the original finish to Pentapitch. So the FA using aid should be Rick Reese, Dick Ream, Lloyd Anderson, 1963, with the FFA George Lowe & Paul Andersen, 1966. The pins were probably placed by Reese. (Source Rick Reese).
    By Shaun Greene
    From: www.UtahShaun.com
    Jun 10, 2008

    If you like the green a you will love this climb. This is the green a on steroids. The climb stays fun the entire way and the upper crack eases up considerably. This climb definately favors those climbers with small fingers.
    By bheller
    From: SL UT
    Sep 28, 2008

    I fell at the end of the thin crack right before it eases up and ripped 4 micro nuts and thankfully, the first pin caught and held. The fall also pulled out the two micro nuts I had placed below the pin. That left me with the old angle, and one cam where I left the pentapitch crack and climbed right onto the slab. I give this thing R fo' show'. Lady fingers would help, and there is no reliable gear through the 10 feet of the crux. Even when I fell and tried to fiddle in gear on the hang, it was marginal at best- and I had HB offsets, microcams, and metolius astronuts.
    By junkshow Greenwell
    Aug 7, 2009

    super good line. purple c3 works after traverse right. then a small bd micro nut. piton's solid, works after small off-set ripped. love watching slow motion, gear ripping falls. keep your shit straight.
    By drewford
    From: Wasatch Back, UT
    Jun 4, 2014

    Just now seeing bsmoot's comment about the FFA. Wow. Having freed the route, and considering the date, had it been anyone else but George, I'd be super skeptical. But when someone calls Crack of Doom "5.9 with a boulder start" you know they're in a league of their own!
    By Brent Barghahn
    From: SLC, UT
    May 7, 2017
    rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13

    Someone replaced the lower pin with a bolt. The route has the same go for it nature, but without gambling on the pin. Thanks to whoever added it! It is easy to traverse up and left to the final Pentapitch anchor as one long pitch.
    By Aaron Livingston
    From: Moab, UT
    Aug 31, 2017
    rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13

    I'm not sure how anyone gets gear in below the bolt. I fiddled around with everything including a 000, ball nuts, and brass. Ended up placing 2 cams in the penta pitch ramp extended with runners and quick draws then going to the bolt. Found placements for 3 offset brassies and a blue ball nut for the crux but had to shave it down to 1 piece of brass and the blue ball nut since the key footholds were all blocked. Lowe was probaby the most under appreciated climber of his time, this thing is spicy.

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