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flash lingo 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b PG13 [details]
FA: Dave Count, Rob Settlemire
Page Views: 70
Submitted By: Muscrat on Apr 22, 2016

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
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Description 

Climb the first 15' of 'Sure Thing', then look left to find the bolt, just out of reach. Step out onto the face, good hands, crazy feet, clip bolt, move up and search for the well hidden holds. As of April 2016, the bolt, a rusty button spinner, is NOT to be trusted.

Location 

When the sun is shining, the bolt is easy to see. The penultimate left most line, on the improbable face. Walk off either left or right. Infrequently climbed, can be very dirty/mossy.

Protection 

1 bolt, rack to 2", doubles .3-.5. Difficult to build anchor on large ledge just below top-out.


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By Muscrat
Administrator
Apr 22, 2016

Paul Bernard's book has this as a 10.a. NOT! I am attempting to contact the FA to confirm, but this is more like a 10+. DO NOT LEAD THIS WITHOUT REPLACING THE BOLT. Old buttonhead rusty spinner. Difficult to set up TR, takes 50' or slings or second rope. A really fun line.
By Muscrat
Administrator
Jun 6, 2016

The bolt is now shiny new. There are now hangers at the lip. To clean it you either need to leave draws, add chains or top out.

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