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Guide's Wall
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Arete/Bulge S,TR 
Flash Crack S,TR 
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Flash Crack 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 25'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 318
Submitted By: Robert Michael on Sep 8, 2016  with updates from Jake Westfall

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BETA PHOTO: Flash Crack

Description 

On the left side of the wall are three crack systems. Flash Crack is the one on the right. You can toprope this from the anchors above (need around 30' of cord or webbing to get your master point over the edge). From the grooves atop some of the routes at this crag, I can tell some people TR directly off the anchors, but this is making the rock ugly and could potentially damage the rope, no matter how polished some of the rock here is.

There apparently is disagreement about whether routes at the Greenbelt can go on gear, but this one can if you trust the rock and your placements. One problem is that there is no pro for the first half of the route (which is easy but still slick enough that even an experienced climber might slip off). You can get a Tricam in one of the pockets lower down, but it doesn't inspire a ton of confidence. After the run-out, there is good pro, with good stances, the rest of the way. Passive gear recommended.

If in doubt, set a TR and do a mock lead just to keep in practice placing gear. And enjoy the funny looks you might get.

Update 10/25/16-- This route, and the other two crack routes to its left, recently was bolted and there are sport anchors above it and the others. The TR anchors are still there.

Location 

For anyone only interested in TRing-- Walk to the right past the end of the wall and find a use trail climbing up and then traversing back to the anchors. There is a Class 5 shortcut by a "cave" if the fall risk is worth saving a couple minutes. The use trail can get pretty brushy.

Protection 

I used stoppers and hexes. Cams will go in, but I wasn't sure that I trusted them not to skate out or break the rock in a fall.

Update 10/25-- There are now four bolts plus sport anchors.


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