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Flash Cadillac 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a PG13

Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 95'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a PG13 [details]
FA: J. Roberts, B. Ruckman, 1988
Fixed Hardware: 1 Lead Bolt [details]
Season: this gets AM shade
Page Views: 258
Submitted By: Tony B on Mar 30, 2015

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  • Description 

    This is a fun route with a short but hard crux right off of the deck.

    Look directly out past the newly replaced bolt (5/2015, thanks to ACE). Move out right to that bolt (5.10-), and clip that, which might be hard for short climbers. The moves to the bolt could probably be made easier by stemming off of the tree, but that is not necessary.

    Having clipped the bolt, make difficult (crux) moves to go right and out to access a finger crack. The moves in the finger crack are generally solid and well-protected for a few body lengths and are not hard climbing, perhaps 5.9+.
    When the crack ends, put in a final bit of gear. A passive brown or red tricam is perfect. A medium stopper is reasonably good but is slightly more likely to wiggle out in the next traversing moves.

    If you liked the style of the crux and want 70 more feet of sustained moves like that, continue up and left to finish on The Untitled (12a). If you have sore toes or tips, head up and right to finish on Ichiban Arete (10a) on sparse trad gear.


    Start as for Ichiban Arete or The Untitled, at the belay tree amid the First Route.


    From the tree on First Route, there is a single bolt then thin to off-fingers gear. A brown Tricam sits perfectly at the top of the crack, but a medium/large nut will do. After that, you can climb up and left to join a line of 8 bolts on The Untitled (12a) or out right to join Ichibahn Arete with a little trad gear(10a, PG-13).

    There is a bolted belay up top that will get you back to the tree, then do one more rap to the ground from that sling and ring belay.

    Per Gregger Man: the bolt was upgraded on 05/30/2015.

    Comments on Flash Cadillac Add Comment
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    By Gregger Man
    From: Broomfield, CO
    May 30, 2015

    Bolt upgraded on 05/30/2015. (Needs to be added to the MP database here.)

    Rock Climbing Photo: Bolt hanger and Rawl from Flash Cadillac, others f...
    Bolt hanger and Rawl from Flash Cadillac, others from Trail of Tears.

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